Friday, December 2, 2011
Necessary to use new nuts on refitting?
I have an audi a6 2.5TDi Quattro 1996 and my haynes manuel says i need to use new nuts when refitting my front anti roll bar with new bushes (obviously i have to take the originals off when replacing the bushes). But all the local parts people either don't have them or don't have sets to hand ( i need ot large ones for the outer ones and 4 for the inner bushes bracket) and have seemed surprised and said no one seems to be asking for them so it can't be necessary....but haynes says....|||they are lock nuts and should not be reused but if you cant find new ones put lock tight on the old ones,auto store can sell you some|||the nuts are milimetric ones, and siince iso norms exist, you can buy them in any hardware store that sells milimetric nuts and bolts, take de nuts with you to get de some ones.
Is this garage bill reasonable?
for a 1992 honda prelude, it needs 2 new front calipers as there seized apparently, an anti roll bar linkage, hand break tensioned properly as its not holding enough.
They rang today to say it's going to be at least 拢300 but could be over 拢400
This is only a back street garage and i think this sounds pretty pricey, do you think its pricey?|||i have asked a few questions about car repairs and garage fees etc, and it seems to me a lot people who reply saying" you would not work for free would you?.....blah blah" seem to be mechanics etc.
well i am sorry but myself and thousand of others have been ripped off by garages over the years and have the right to question why a job costs so much! all people want is honesty from there garage, i dont think this is to much to ask for.|||No its not, and if you were my customer, you wouldn't be for long with your price shopper attitude. Face it, that is why you went to the back street garage in the first place. You will never be satisfied unless they fix it yesterday, do it for free or pay you to do it, and give you a warranty for life on anything that ever happens to the car.
edit: Allen don't have a clue, they are making a profit on the parts so calling around won't tell you anything. You need to pay the price or take your car out of there, and expect to pay a check out fee if you do take it out of there. They don't take the wheels off and press back the calipers to see if they are seized for free, would you work for free, I didn't think so.
Think about this, would you walk into McDonalds and ask them how much they paid for a Big Mac or ask Walmart what they paid for a box of sugar coated cereal, no you wouldn't so why do it to this business or even try to check. Well the profit margin on big macs and cereal are over 500 percent. Either you like the price or you don't, so give the shop it's due or get out.|||hi there yes it is a bit expensive and as a back street garage it could be just repaired rather than changed.if you get a haynes manual it will explain what to do and if you try it yourself there is always the satisfaction of completing the work, jock|||You have no idea because you don't even know the price of the parts, ring round some auto factors and price the parts and then you will have a rough idea of what they are charging for labour.|||Hmmm. Tough one to answer as I don't know a lot about cars. But I'd imagine the parts cost at most 拢150 and the rest is going on labour at about 拢20+ per hour which is pretty normal. Can't see it being a 10hr job so something is a little fishy I think. Lesson for the day- don't go to a back street mech in future! If they're having a bad week you could be paying more for their services than you would if things were going well for them.|||ask local minicab drivers they usually know the cheapest places to get this type of work done on ur car or try eurocarparts and price parts u can also get repair kit for calipers if not to badly corroded[new piston and seals]or as other guy said try moter factors for parts if in uk go to ANDREW WATT CAR SPARES WEBSITE and put in model and year of car an engine size and it will give u price of parts there in glasgow but will give u a idea of price if in uk|||Try ebay for calipers - working examples! - and have a garage fit them, if you can't! ARB links and bushes should also be available there.|||For a back street garage does sound a little bit over but then again sounds like you have a lot of work to do. In my opinion think of it this way, if its going to cost you over 拢400 thats almost half (on average) for a replacement car honda prelude. I mean you can get 98reg for around 拢700 off autotrader.
What you can do, is phone othere garages and get a quote for the work that needs to be done (well rough quote), you won't have to take the car to be checked as you already know what needs to be done. Take the best price from there.
Its the labour cost that tend to increase the price.
They rang today to say it's going to be at least 拢300 but could be over 拢400
This is only a back street garage and i think this sounds pretty pricey, do you think its pricey?|||i have asked a few questions about car repairs and garage fees etc, and it seems to me a lot people who reply saying" you would not work for free would you?.....blah blah" seem to be mechanics etc.
well i am sorry but myself and thousand of others have been ripped off by garages over the years and have the right to question why a job costs so much! all people want is honesty from there garage, i dont think this is to much to ask for.|||No its not, and if you were my customer, you wouldn't be for long with your price shopper attitude. Face it, that is why you went to the back street garage in the first place. You will never be satisfied unless they fix it yesterday, do it for free or pay you to do it, and give you a warranty for life on anything that ever happens to the car.
edit: Allen don't have a clue, they are making a profit on the parts so calling around won't tell you anything. You need to pay the price or take your car out of there, and expect to pay a check out fee if you do take it out of there. They don't take the wheels off and press back the calipers to see if they are seized for free, would you work for free, I didn't think so.
Think about this, would you walk into McDonalds and ask them how much they paid for a Big Mac or ask Walmart what they paid for a box of sugar coated cereal, no you wouldn't so why do it to this business or even try to check. Well the profit margin on big macs and cereal are over 500 percent. Either you like the price or you don't, so give the shop it's due or get out.|||hi there yes it is a bit expensive and as a back street garage it could be just repaired rather than changed.if you get a haynes manual it will explain what to do and if you try it yourself there is always the satisfaction of completing the work, jock|||You have no idea because you don't even know the price of the parts, ring round some auto factors and price the parts and then you will have a rough idea of what they are charging for labour.|||Hmmm. Tough one to answer as I don't know a lot about cars. But I'd imagine the parts cost at most 拢150 and the rest is going on labour at about 拢20+ per hour which is pretty normal. Can't see it being a 10hr job so something is a little fishy I think. Lesson for the day- don't go to a back street mech in future! If they're having a bad week you could be paying more for their services than you would if things were going well for them.|||ask local minicab drivers they usually know the cheapest places to get this type of work done on ur car or try eurocarparts and price parts u can also get repair kit for calipers if not to badly corroded[new piston and seals]or as other guy said try moter factors for parts if in uk go to ANDREW WATT CAR SPARES WEBSITE and put in model and year of car an engine size and it will give u price of parts there in glasgow but will give u a idea of price if in uk|||Try ebay for calipers - working examples! - and have a garage fit them, if you can't! ARB links and bushes should also be available there.|||For a back street garage does sound a little bit over but then again sounds like you have a lot of work to do. In my opinion think of it this way, if its going to cost you over 拢400 thats almost half (on average) for a replacement car honda prelude. I mean you can get 98reg for around 拢700 off autotrader.
What you can do, is phone othere garages and get a quote for the work that needs to be done (well rough quote), you won't have to take the car to be checked as you already know what needs to be done. Take the best price from there.
Its the labour cost that tend to increase the price.
MOT Failure, can anyone give me a rough estimate on repairs?
1. Nearside track rod end ball joint excessive play
2. Nearside front anti-roll bar linkage has excessive play in a pin/bush (drop link)
3. Offside headlamp aim too low....
Anyone give me a rough estimate please?
Also, separately, how much to replace front discs?
53 Citroen C3|||Look up these items ay www.eurocarparts.co.uk to get a rough idea of prices or www.gsf.co.uk (german,swedish,french car parts).
i would price up brake pads as well as they will need to be replaced when discs are done.
I would think 拢200 is a realistic price for a garage to do these jobs|||Hard to say without knowing the garage labour rates, but it shouldn't be more than a couple of hundred quid I shouldn't think.
Front discs, anything from 拢100 to 拢300 I'd guess, depending where you get the parts from and who does the work. It would be much better for you just to ask a local garage, you're not going to get terribly helpful answers on here.
2. Nearside front anti-roll bar linkage has excessive play in a pin/bush (drop link)
3. Offside headlamp aim too low....
Anyone give me a rough estimate please?
Also, separately, how much to replace front discs?
53 Citroen C3|||Look up these items ay www.eurocarparts.co.uk to get a rough idea of prices or www.gsf.co.uk (german,swedish,french car parts).
i would price up brake pads as well as they will need to be replaced when discs are done.
I would think 拢200 is a realistic price for a garage to do these jobs|||Hard to say without knowing the garage labour rates, but it shouldn't be more than a couple of hundred quid I shouldn't think.
Front discs, anything from 拢100 to 拢300 I'd guess, depending where you get the parts from and who does the work. It would be much better for you just to ask a local garage, you're not going to get terribly helpful answers on here.
Repairs needed on car - is it safe to drive?
I've asked a similar question but not getting anywhere. I don't think the brakes are safe on this car my mum bought a few days ago and even more worried when we found the advisory notice online. We spoke to the trader and he says the rear service brake is the hand brake and not a serious problem. Is there anyone who knows about mechanics able to help to identify whether the problems below found 5 months ago by the MOT garage will be unsafe now (especially the brakes)? I especially would like to know if the rear service brake has anything to do with the hand brake because he's being quite aggressive to my elderly mum and I'm not happy driving this car (hasn't done yet).
Rear service brake - Your vehicle has only just met the required service brake efficiency. It would appear that the braking system requires adjustment or repair.
Play in both front anti roll bar d bushes
Both front brake flexis perrished slightly
Both rear flexis slightly perrished
Both rear brake pipes slightly corroded
Both rear axle bushes worn |||OK this is a fairly straight forward question.The MOT report has advised that there is some work required to rear brakes, during the MOT the tester will pull the hand brake handle up and it should click between four and seven times. If it takes more than seven the car will fail its MOT.
There are two possible reasons for the handle going up more than seven clicks, first the hand brake needs to be adjusted to reduce the travel. This is very straight forward and will take no more than 10 mins at a garage.
The second reason is that the rear brake shoes have worn beyond there maximum wear point. You will need to get the shoes replaced with new shoes.
My advice would be to take the car down to your local tire centre to get them to check it out.
Ja.|||No one could say for certain if these things will be unsafe 5 months after an advisory, if you are worried you should take it to a garage and get it fixed now. As it will probably fail it's next MOT on these anyway your just spending the money now rather than in 7 months time.
And yes the service brake is the hand brake, so make sure you turn the wheels into the kerb if you park on a hill!|||I would consider this car unsafe, especially for your mum. I would take it to another workshop and have it MOT'd on the spot. Then take the failure points up with the trader. Get Trading standards on the case at the start. Unfortunately there are still too many dodgy dealers offloading junk onto unsuspecting customers. It is an offense to sell an unroadworthy car.
Rear service brake - Your vehicle has only just met the required service brake efficiency. It would appear that the braking system requires adjustment or repair.
Play in both front anti roll bar d bushes
Both front brake flexis perrished slightly
Both rear flexis slightly perrished
Both rear brake pipes slightly corroded
Both rear axle bushes worn |||OK this is a fairly straight forward question.The MOT report has advised that there is some work required to rear brakes, during the MOT the tester will pull the hand brake handle up and it should click between four and seven times. If it takes more than seven the car will fail its MOT.
There are two possible reasons for the handle going up more than seven clicks, first the hand brake needs to be adjusted to reduce the travel. This is very straight forward and will take no more than 10 mins at a garage.
The second reason is that the rear brake shoes have worn beyond there maximum wear point. You will need to get the shoes replaced with new shoes.
My advice would be to take the car down to your local tire centre to get them to check it out.
Ja.|||No one could say for certain if these things will be unsafe 5 months after an advisory, if you are worried you should take it to a garage and get it fixed now. As it will probably fail it's next MOT on these anyway your just spending the money now rather than in 7 months time.
And yes the service brake is the hand brake, so make sure you turn the wheels into the kerb if you park on a hill!|||I would consider this car unsafe, especially for your mum. I would take it to another workshop and have it MOT'd on the spot. Then take the failure points up with the trader. Get Trading standards on the case at the start. Unfortunately there are still too many dodgy dealers offloading junk onto unsuspecting customers. It is an offense to sell an unroadworthy car.
Knocking from front right wheel when turning right on uneven surfaces?
if i drive on cobbled road i get knocking from the right if i turn wheels right but no noise if going straight or turn left. does not happen on very smooth roads only uneven surfaces.
how can i test,
cv joint?
ball joint?
all gaitors look in good condition as do all bushes. i have jacked car up and can't see anything, i also cant get it to make the noise by shaking anti roll bar, drive shaft ect.
there is no play in wheel testing for wheel bearings.
its a uk impreza 2000 turbo
many thanks|||I think that the turning right is the clue. I think it is the CV joint. If it was the torsion bar or anti roll bar bushes then it would sound on uneven roads.|||May be a bad strut or strut tower bolts.|||tighten McPherson's strut bolt|||Knocking noise suggests a bushing.
how can i test,
cv joint?
ball joint?
all gaitors look in good condition as do all bushes. i have jacked car up and can't see anything, i also cant get it to make the noise by shaking anti roll bar, drive shaft ect.
there is no play in wheel testing for wheel bearings.
its a uk impreza 2000 turbo
many thanks|||I think that the turning right is the clue. I think it is the CV joint. If it was the torsion bar or anti roll bar bushes then it would sound on uneven roads.|||May be a bad strut or strut tower bolts.|||tighten McPherson's strut bolt|||Knocking noise suggests a bushing.
Knocking from front right wheel when turning right on uneven surfaces?
if i drive on cobbled road i get knocking from the right if i turn wheels right but no noise if going straight or turn left. does not happen on very smooth roads only uneven surfaces.
how can i test,
cv joint?
ball joint?
all gaitors look in good condition as do all bushes. i have jacked car up and can't see anything, i also cant get it to make the noise by shaking anti roll bar, drive shaft ect.
there is no play in wheel testing for wheel bearings.
its a uk impreza 2000 turbo
many thanks|||To check the ball joint jack the right front side up so the tire is just a bit off the ground. Use a long bar (crow-bar or your lug wrench) and pry up on the tire. If it moves up and down (without the whole car moving) the ball joint is bad.
For the cv joint grab the sides of the tire and push side to side on it. If it moves without the whole front end moving the tie-rods or cv joints are bad.
With either of these tests the tire should not have any wiggle in it. Any movement at all you should get it to a garage and have them recheck it for you. This is a quick test, but it is very accurate.
I had not thought about the brakes sticking, but that is possible to.|||cv joint mate, and it needs seeing to, i'm told that if the joint locks than it could be quite a nasty scary and possibly fatal moment for you|||Possibly a bearing but it can also be a stuck brake calliper and the noise is the disk pad rattling around.|||sounds like cv joint,get it diognosed and fixed as soon as possble|||Sounds like a drive shaft !!|||sounds like the anti role bar drop link had the same problem with my escort|||my guess would be cv joint
how can i test,
cv joint?
ball joint?
all gaitors look in good condition as do all bushes. i have jacked car up and can't see anything, i also cant get it to make the noise by shaking anti roll bar, drive shaft ect.
there is no play in wheel testing for wheel bearings.
its a uk impreza 2000 turbo
many thanks|||To check the ball joint jack the right front side up so the tire is just a bit off the ground. Use a long bar (crow-bar or your lug wrench) and pry up on the tire. If it moves up and down (without the whole car moving) the ball joint is bad.
For the cv joint grab the sides of the tire and push side to side on it. If it moves without the whole front end moving the tie-rods or cv joints are bad.
With either of these tests the tire should not have any wiggle in it. Any movement at all you should get it to a garage and have them recheck it for you. This is a quick test, but it is very accurate.
I had not thought about the brakes sticking, but that is possible to.|||cv joint mate, and it needs seeing to, i'm told that if the joint locks than it could be quite a nasty scary and possibly fatal moment for you|||Possibly a bearing but it can also be a stuck brake calliper and the noise is the disk pad rattling around.|||sounds like cv joint,get it diognosed and fixed as soon as possble|||Sounds like a drive shaft !!|||sounds like the anti role bar drop link had the same problem with my escort|||my guess would be cv joint
Wednesday, November 30, 2011
How much better is a saxo vts to a vtr?
im considering buying a saxo, i have my heart set on one after seeing my mates vtr but i know the vts has a 16 valve engine and has 20 more bhp but taking power out of the equation how much better is the vts?
i understand the vts uses stiffer anti-roll bars and rear axle etc but do these make a big difference?|||neither. it will spend more time in the garage than on your drive, most of them have been ragged sensless which wont help. id get a fiesta zetec-s it runs 115bhp and will handle alot better than either saxos and has better reliability. but if youve got your heart set then the vtr purely on lower buying cost and insurance|||I go for the vtr , there isn't much difference between a vtr and vts in performance but there is in cost like tax , fuel and insurance. I would ignore cakey about the zetec s , that is too slow and crap vtr are so much quicker and nicer looking especially in black. And they are very reliable.
|||Insurance will be lower becuse its not a 'chavs' car. the vtr has 90bhp standard and the zetec s has over 100 depending on the year, book time 0-60 is about the same but reliability is much better. french against yamaha. i know which one i would chose. and handling is far better having driven all 3
|||Insurance will be lower becuse its not a 'chavs' car. the vtr has 90bhp standard and the zetec s has over 100 depending on the year, book time 0-60 is about the same but reliability is much better. french against yamaha. i know which one i would chose. and handling is far better having driven all 3
i understand the vts uses stiffer anti-roll bars and rear axle etc but do these make a big difference?|||neither. it will spend more time in the garage than on your drive, most of them have been ragged sensless which wont help. id get a fiesta zetec-s it runs 115bhp and will handle alot better than either saxos and has better reliability. but if youve got your heart set then the vtr purely on lower buying cost and insurance|||I go for the vtr , there isn't much difference between a vtr and vts in performance but there is in cost like tax , fuel and insurance. I would ignore cakey about the zetec s , that is too slow and crap vtr are so much quicker and nicer looking especially in black. And they are very reliable.
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|||Insurance will be lower becuse its not a 'chavs' car. the vtr has 90bhp standard and the zetec s has over 100 depending on the year, book time 0-60 is about the same but reliability is much better. french against yamaha. i know which one i would chose. and handling is far better having driven all 3
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|||Insurance will be lower becuse its not a 'chavs' car. the vtr has 90bhp standard and the zetec s has over 100 depending on the year, book time 0-60 is about the same but reliability is much better. french against yamaha. i know which one i would chose. and handling is far better having driven all 3
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