Wednesday, November 30, 2011

How much better is a saxo vts to a vtr?

im considering buying a saxo, i have my heart set on one after seeing my mates vtr but i know the vts has a 16 valve engine and has 20 more bhp but taking power out of the equation how much better is the vts?





i understand the vts uses stiffer anti-roll bars and rear axle etc but do these make a big difference?|||neither. it will spend more time in the garage than on your drive, most of them have been ragged sensless which wont help. id get a fiesta zetec-s it runs 115bhp and will handle alot better than either saxos and has better reliability. but if youve got your heart set then the vtr purely on lower buying cost and insurance|||I go for the vtr , there isn't much difference between a vtr and vts in performance but there is in cost like tax , fuel and insurance. I would ignore cakey about the zetec s , that is too slow and crap vtr are so much quicker and nicer looking especially in black. And they are very reliable.

Report Abuse


|||Insurance will be lower becuse its not a 'chavs' car. the vtr has 90bhp standard and the zetec s has over 100 depending on the year, book time 0-60 is about the same but reliability is much better. french against yamaha. i know which one i would chose. and handling is far better having driven all 3

Report Abuse


|||Insurance will be lower becuse its not a 'chavs' car. the vtr has 90bhp standard and the zetec s has over 100 depending on the year, book time 0-60 is about the same but reliability is much better. french against yamaha. i know which one i would chose. and handling is far better having driven all 3

Report Abuse

Is this an expensive quote from the VW main dealer ?

I have had a service and the VW garage have quoted me the following:





Rear Axle Bushes both sides fitted: 拢154


Anti Roll Bar bushes and clamps fitted: 拢367





Is this expensive as I cannot afford this at the moment but im worried about not having it done?





thank you|||It's high. Generally the dealer will overcharge you, Try going to a smaller garage and definitely look around for a better deal. If you're young or a girl bring an older man with you. They get lower quotes statistically.|||In general all quotes from main garages are normally high. Try asking around with local, independent garages, they normally use the same genuine parts but fit them for a much cheaper price.|||id say if you took it to a garage it would cost 拢150-200 all in|||bit on the high side, but you must expect that from the main dealer!|||Strangely, I think the back axle price is pretty good, but the anti roll bar bushes are expensive - if you're on a budget, NEVER use a main dealer, you'll always be paying top prices for work.


Find a good local independent garage %26amp; use them.|||The dealers price is high because the charge 拢90 per hour labour charge where a independent garage like mine charges from as little as 拢35.00 per hour labour, this depends on the garage overheads.





the rear axle bushes cost approx 拢20.50 each + dealers 拢90.00 labour plus Vat brings the price to 拢154.00





Sorry i haven't got the other price to hand but you can see why they charge so much.





Before having the bushes replaced do you get a metal rattle sound from the suspension beneath the front floor as if the bushes are worn out you will, then will it be time to replace these.



My c180 has rattle noise at rear when hitting small bumps on road?

i thin what do you thinkk it might be rear anti roll bar bushes|||also maybe upper shock mounts. usually a nice handy and very cheap part to replace which is nice.|||maybe the struts are loose?|||I think I'd check the exhaust system first.

Any good mechanical/auto shop in West Houston/Katy area?

I need to replace the brake pads and rotors on my car, and probably install an anti-roll bar kit.





I can get all the parts online but I'm trying to find a good mechanical/auto shop in the West Houston/Katy area that charges a reasonable amount for labor. Thanks :)|||I've used Golden Wrench on W Little York, just a few blocks East of Barker Cypress Rd. I was treated fairly every time I went in|||listen to am radio - 700 %26amp; 950 on saturday morning - several car shows - with good recommendations

Is my car worth getting repaired?

I have a Renault Clio Dynamique


The wheel bearings at the front need doing


Probably a new cam belt


The advisory notes from the last MOT say it has anti roll bar linkage rubber mounting is deteriorating but not excessively and inner cv boot gaiter deteriorating





Im thinking of buying a peugeot 206 53plate for 1295 is it worth sticking with my car i have at the moment or investing in the peugeot?





All answers gratefully appreciated!|||I'd avoid buying most French cars, apart from the Citroen C1. If you're thinking of buying a new used car, go for the Mitsubishi Colt or Toyota Yaris.|||most of the time it,s better to stick with what you have. parts are cheaper then another car and besides you won,t have that car payment each month.|||Can you trust the garage where it went for it's mot? If so get it done and then you got s car that might last a lot longer more time to save up more money

Mot repairs ford transit , the garage said take it to scarp yard but i want to know roughly how much it would

cost to repair . failed on ;


1. nearside front brake disc excessively worn.


2. nearside rear brake drum excessively worn


3.near side suspension spring mounting prescribed ares ecessively corroded.


4.nearside front anti roll bar rubber bush deteriorated resulting in excessive movement .


should i scrap it or repair it please help.


its a ford transit 80 1996 .


THANK YOU|||Items 1,2 %26amp; 4 are eaisly repared cheaply


The welding is the issue and nobody on here can answer you as they have not seen it.


I could be as simple as 1 plate ( 拢50 ish ) or it could be completely rotten needing plates fabricating to repair it properly. often you cannot even see you bad it is until the rusty metal is cut away.


I would base the desicsion to scrap or repair it based on a relaible repair quote and the overall condition of the van and its relaibilty|||It's no.3 that's really going to cost you the money, the van is potentially dangerous to drive with corrosion in an important structural component like a spring mounting.


For the purposes of the MOT, structural corrosion is defined as any corrosion which occurs within 12in.(30cm) of a loadbearing point on the body.


The other parts you need aren't that expensive as they're fairly common Ford parts, but overall it really is best just to scrap it.


And with the price of scrap metal stilll going up it will you pay you to do this and then put the money you'd have spent on repairs towards buying another van.|||If that were my van, and being the practical type that I am, I'd have that fixed in a jiffy.





There's nothing radically wrong based on those items.





Brake discs and drums are consumable items - they're expected to wear out and are easily replaced.





Anti-roll bar bushes are also consumables.





the only issue to ponder, is what exactly is corroded in/on/around the spring mounting? Usually, a handy lad with welding tackle can sort out any chassis welding issues - and it need not cost the earth.





I'd guess it all depends on how much you want to fix the van, versus how much you want to replace it.|||The most expensive repair is going to be the suspension mounting, as this is going to need a repair plate and some welding.





Having new discs, and pads, is not mega expensive, and two new rear brake drums, and shoes is not either.





Front anti roll bar bushes should not prove to be much of a problem to replace, I would get some quotes from various mechanics, and garages.





It all depends on what you are prepared to spend on your trannie really|||Your looking at about 拢220-拢300


1 = 拢30 disc - 拢30 labour


2 = 拢30 Drum - 拢30 Labuor


3= 拢60 拢80 Welding Labour


4 = 拢20 Rubber Part - 拢15 Labour


These are estimates from a back street garage.





You will get around 拢70 拢110 for the van at a scrap yard, depending on its condition





Hope this helps, Steve|||If it runs/shifts good, FIX IT !- Should be WAY LESS than another van(?) !


I wouldn't think it'd run much over $500 for the framework, and that again for parts, so it kinda depends on how much you're gonna pay for labor-Nothing on your fail list should be that much(pretty simple/everyday repairs).|||now then was that front or rear spring mount ? sounds like front and the garage is scared of welding.if you got second hand bits and a good mechanic it would cost no more than 拢250 but if want to scrap it then i would take it of your hands for free!|||It would cost you more than the vans worth to be honest, if you really need it then obviously repair it but if it is easy for you to buy a new van i would do that. all of those jobs would cost you over 拢1000|||my mechanic hubby said its not worth spending any money on. you may be able to get the parts cheap enough, but the labour charges will be massive. if you could get someone to do it cheap enough then it may ok, but don't get your hopes up|||My son who is dual qualified auto mech and body repair tech and has an MOT testers ticket says the repairs will cost more than the van is worth. Scrap it. You can pick up 96 Transits for peanuts.|||the brakes would be easy to do but the spring mount will need quite alot of profesional welding but thats the only big job there the other stuff would be a doddle for anyone with a toolbox|||1996 model dont cost much. Best to get rid of it to a metal merchant who will give you more money for it than a scrap yard will.|||Lucky ellie is spot on.|||scarp yard?

Can i tow a Vauxhall Frontera SWB on an A frame bracket?

Does anyone know if i can attach an A frame bracket to the front of my frontera sport SWB to tow it? Its currently 250 miles away form me so cant check myself so thought id ask if anyone knew! My dad thinks if he can see the anti roll bars underneath( i think he said those) the front it can be attached to those?


Help please! Many thanks|||You couldn't do it even if you could fit the A frame.





'A' frames can only be used to recover a vehicle short distances. The vehicle being towed becomes classed as an unbraked trailer and is therefore illegal due to the weight. Many people fall foul of this law by towing small cars behind mobile homes.





See the link for more details.





http://www.ukmotorhomes.net/a-frames.sht鈥?/a>|||Anti roll bars are not strong enough to be used for towing a vehicle - they would just bend or rip out.|||if the frontera has fly on shift like mine had and you tow it you will rip the transfer box due no pressure and it automaticaly puts the diff locks in so it wreck the 4x4 systern when mine broke down it had to be uplifted saves a lot of hassel

Honda tuner enthusiasts!!! I need help with 05 Honda Accord EX V6 coupe handling upgrade ideas?

I just recently purchased a 2005 Honda Accord EX V6 coupe with the 6 speed manual tranny and Navigation system. I am well aware that this car is no sports car and it is not my goal to turn it into one. While this car has decent power, it could really use some better handling. This is where I need your help. I pretty much have a list of items I want, but need feedback on what the best brands for each are. If you have any personal experience with a certain brand please tell me how you like/dislike it... Thank you in advance..


Here is my list:


Springs- Don't want any more than a 1.5" drop





Shocks





Anti Roll Bars aka sway/stabalizer bar (front and rear) want polyurethane bushings





Camber Kit or Bolts





Big Brake Kit for Front and Rear





Wheels- Either 17"s or possibly 18"s, must be lightweight, preferable black with chrome lip.





Tires- want highest performance summer tire that is also good off the track as a daily driver tire.





Any other items anyone would suggest?|||TEIN suspention Coilovers (yes you can find a 1 1/2'' drop for it) For rims and tires i have 17'' Motegi MR7s with Kelly Fierce Racing Tires... thts all i got...|||TIEN Coilovers 1.5 drop


http://www.autozconcept.com/showproduct.鈥?/a>


greedy strut tower bars


http://www.greddy.com/products/display/?鈥?/a>


i have things to do right now ill finsh in a lil no more than a day=]


im back =]


wheels go with HFP(Honda Factory Performance)


brakes go with brembo


join honda-tech.com


if your will to go that extra step an remove the power steering that will give you better handleing too|||changing the power steering response time...

How can i change lower suspension arm on Peugeot 205 GLD?

Anti-roll bar stops the end that sits in the chassis mount from sitting straight, it sits slightly at an angle so it's impossible to get the bolt through, got it in on the other side with brute force but is there any easier way?|||I would disconnect the roll bar. Get it out of the way. Have fun with it.

206 gti problems throws you when i put my foot down?

hi i have a 206 gti the problem i have is that when i put my foot down it throws you. I changed the wishbone,ball joints,drop links anti roll-bar bushes look fine and had the tracking done the car has been lowered it was lowered when i bought it please help me.|||unlower it dont dick about with factory settings

I have just had tracking done on my ford escort and the steering now throws you from one side to the other?

I have been told this could be the anti roll bar bushes ???|||Take it back to be checked , they have not tracked it properly and may have overlooked the real problem which if it is this bad could be suspension bush wear and or track rod end wear .Take the car to someone who is a proper experienced mechanic and has MOT testing qualifications.|||Take it back and complain!! (Drive carefully on the way)|||TAKE IT BACK STRAIGHT AWAY|||No.


Take it back and have them fix it. Ask them if they test drove the car. Sounds like they have a toe out condition, not toe in.

Hi i have a ford ka and there is bumping noise from frount wheels when going over pot holes?

ive put new anti roll bar bushes on but still makes noise not as bad as before what else can it be|||your bumping noise is probably your bottom arms, usually the rubber bushes on the rear of the arms they wear out and cause noises quite common on all fords.|||sounds like shock absorbers or a bearing.


just best to take it to your nearest garage. better safe than sorry.


ford KA parts are quiet cheap.


:)|||Go over a bit faster then!! Don't know why anyone would admit to owning one of the ugglee-est cars on the road. Sorry! I just want to jump out of me lorry %26amp; stamp on them|||its a common fault on a ford KA, i had one for 2 years and the suspension went twiceoff just going over speed bumps|||I'm pretty sure all cars maake a bumping noise when going over potholes.|||maybe the noise is from the bump going over potholes.|||They are known for top strut mounts and bottom arms going on these cars|||could be that you need new shocks put in on all wheels


hope this helps|||sounds like you need new shock absorbers.|||maybe you have a caliper loose or the brake pads are rattling.

I have a Renault Scenic 2000cc auto . After driving about 7-8 miles I hear a front knocking sound? any help?

I have a Renault Scenic 2000cc automatic year 2000 . After driving about 7-8 miles I hear a front knocking sound not related to accelerating. have had the anti-roll bar bushes changed and front spring coil and discs and pads changed as well. But the sound comes after driving certain miles? Any thoughts .Thanks|||check your CV joints mate

How to tune cars in Forza Motorsport 2?

Before starting a race i want to be able to change the gearing for certain cars on certain tracks, but the game wont let me. The only tuning it will let me do are the tires, but the gearing, alignment, anti-roll bars, springs, damping, and aero wont work. If you know how to fix this please help me out.|||to tune any part in the game, you have to have a tunable part installed on that car. when you buy the parts, it will tell you if it's tunable or not.

What does this mean and what will the cost be for my MOT?

1. Nearside front anti-roll bar linkage has excessive play in ball joint.|||It means 拢40 for the MOT, 拢30 for a new ball joint and 拢40 for fitting.





Yep, isn't motoring fun!|||i buy my parts off ebay, bearings, ball joints, shocks. very reasonable too.|||you need a new ball joint fitting,this shouldnt be very expensive,your local garage can do it ,it should only take 30 mins at the most.|||dont remind me-got the same thing wrong !!|||been a professional mechanic for 8 yrs and worked on cars and trucks for even longer and have never heard of a mot. when i hear mot i think applesauce.|||Hi





There is a component known as a DROP LINK which attaches to the anti roll bar and usually the bottom arm.





They can have either one ball joint and a bush, or two ball joints and one of them on your car is worn. It is not an expensive part and it is not expensive to have fitted at about 15 minutes, so don't worry about it, just have it done and get your MOT certificate!





Best regards





Geordie|||you need it replacing, go to eurocarparts.com to find out much it will cost so you now how much ( roughly ) they are going to charge you to fix and retest your car.


Aretest should be free if done within 3-5 days if not it is the same as you paid before. (拢35-拢55)|||same problem. i knew that before i took my car for an mot last weekend. passed without a mention. the most common reason for this is a bent anti-roll bar itself (prev owner, damage etc). if you ever get a chance to get under your car, while its on a ramp, you can tell if its not aligned by looking under the bushes that hold this anti-roll bar. there are marks on the roll bar which allow you to align it under these bushes. if they are visible, then its a good idea to get the roll bar changed as well because the linkages will only last a couple thousand miles before they are damaged again as a result of this misalignment.





in my opinion, if you are not much bothered, get a roll bar from a scrapyard and get linkages from ebay. agree with a local garage that you will supply these to them to get them fitted on your car. the roll bar should cost 拢20-25 (used) and linkages shouldnt cost more than 拢20 on ebay. it is a 30-45 min job and you should be charged accordingly.





i went to nationwide in sutton coldfield parade and paid for my MOT with tesco vouchers i.e. if you wanna not bother about getting them changed.





PS: it is not a safety hazard as anti-roll bars only help avoid over steer.|||拢150|||The parts themselves should not be that expensive and it is generally not that hard a job to do. You don't say what kind of car it is though and that of course has a bearing on the parts prices as well as the complexity in some instances.





Don't start thinking about using used parts to try and safe a few quid, buy new for this it won't be all that much and you really can not muck about with these things. If you don't have the equipment to do it yourself (some way of suspending the car SAFELY with the offending wheel off the deck to allow you split and the joint and replace it), then take it to go a good independant garage and get a quote for the work first, it should not take them anymore than a couple of hours labour absolute max (including all the bugger*ing about that they usually - the job itself is pretty quick), plus the parts. Unless, as I say, you have something unusual or exotic.|||you're sway bar is moving around at the point where it is connected to the suspension. Not good, get it fixed.

How will the traction at the rear of the car be affected by increasing the droop setting?

My car currently is prone to slide off power mid-corner, and increasing the droop (negative travel) should hopefully cure this problem; or should I instead decrease the stiffness of the anti-roll (sway) bar at the rear of the car?|||The droop setting will not be a fix for this - you will need to speed up the rpms when under load.|||wrong section|||You should ask this question in the car section


I don't know so i can't really help you





Hope this helped


Mip

How to make my car be the ultimate handling car?

Better springs like Eibach. Better shock absorbers like koni? Also I want to insert better brakes. Any place online to get anti roll bar. I can't find my car Eibach and Koni for my car. The one I one. If I buy a different one than the one for my vehicle, will it fit. I also plan to get michelin pilot sport 16" to replace my 14" tire. Of course I don't expect it to handle like lotus exige, but I want it to handle much better.





This is the car I have. It is the first generation car that is listed there. So what things I left out for a better handling.Thanks!!





http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Proton_Satr鈥?/a>|||hye.. that car is from my country..and theres lots of mods you can do to super impriove it.. i would suggest you to look for TIENs shocks definitely.. and get a 'cucsco' branded member braces,a stiffer sway bar for the front %26amp; rear (eibach is good enough),..and the best tips for better handling %26amp; acceleration is to have a really good engine mounting.. (ralliart)..|||Look for 1991 Mitsubishi Mirage like the article says.





The upgrades you have mentioned are a very good starting point. Springs, shocks, sway-bar, will all dramatically improve handling, as will some decent tires/wheels.





Good luck with your upgrades!|||if the engine is in the front, take all the weight you could take of the front, including radio. So that the weight distribution will be more equal.|||put aftermarket shocks there you go

Is it worth bothereding about slight advisory from mot?

- 2 rear anti roll bar linkage have very slight play in ball joints


- front offside track rod end slight play





is it worth bothering about these, are they expensive jobs, probably tackle them myself with the haynes, but parts cost wise?|||Good lad - get them done, they won't get any better!


Parts are dirt cheap so it's an ideal DIY job.|||strange that it should have passed with worn or even slightly worn track rod end, to replace its about 拢15 max for the part, easy to change, but you will need to get wheel alignment reset afterwards,( tracking)


the roll bar bushes, don't bother, you could try forcing some grease in and around them, just might stop then knocking or squeaking.|||I agree with JG on this, they're not going to get any better and it is a task you can undertake yourself with the Haynes manual and a few tools. A good intro to DIY, not too "techy".|||yes they are worth bothering about ...otherwise the mot inspector would have not advised ...what some inspectors advise ..another would fail it ..nearly 30% of cars fail on steering and suspension etc ...these guys keep us safe

I'm getting a Peugeot 306 and i have been told it has a problem. Can anyone help me !!?

I have been told the nearside %26amp; offside anti-roll bar linkage has a slight play in the ball joint. Also the nearside %26amp; offside front track roll end ball joint has a slight play. Can anyone tell me if this is serious. Also what is the brake hose?|||It is serious enough to possibly fail the mot. Ring a garage and get quotes. The brake hoses carry brake fluid to the brakes. They are short flexible rubber hoses. If they are showing signs of perishing (surface cracks) they should be renewed immediately. Failure could have serious consequences. |||have you purchased th is car yet? can you make some deals with the people you're purchasing the car from. The stuff you detail is serious, the slight play will be cause to put a new front end under the car. In the US you'll pay big bucks. The brake hose is what causes the car to stop. It sends brake fluid to the brakes on the wheel.|||All basic repairs, all three points are MOT failures. I would think you could find a friend somewhere to do this basic stuff and the put it into garage for the tracking to be set. Not sure about costs as I do my own but I would think about about 拢160.|||Ok not serious but it would fail am MOT As for the brake hose, if their is anything wrong with that well that is serious. Get it in a garage

Confusion about Strut Bar..?

Hi, i have a 1999 honda accord, with these suspension from 4 years ago.. no idea what it is.. (its green.. thats all i know)...





Well the car is about 3 inches from the ground w/ 18 inch rims. The thing is... I just ordered a front strut bar for 50$ and im wondering if i should get something else.. like rear anti roll bars or rear strut bars.





The car is just for daily use.. Used to go to autocross, but after the crash, i stopped.





Here are the questions / what i know..


I know strut bar helps reduce body flex, less uneven tire wear.


Would anti roll bars help for daily driving? (i dont really feel any rolling... the suspension is super stiff)





Thanks, Will always choose best answer.|||The car already has at least a front roll-bar (the stock suspension even had one). Since it sounds like you've got a modified suspension, it may also already have a rear-roll bar too (or it may not).





For street use getting stiffer roll bars won't do much except cause the car to ride even rougher than it currently does (the roll bars physically link each side of the suspension so the stiffer the roll bar, the less one side of the suspension can move independently of the other).





In terms of handling, adding roll stiffness to the front suspension (by adding a stiffer roll bar) reduces roll/body lean in the front end, but it also increases understeer near the handling limits. Adding roll stiffness to the rear suspension also reduces body lean/roll but it increases the car's tendency to oversteer, not understeer like the front roll bar does.





Think of roll bars as salt and pepper - they're like seasoning to tune the suspension once you've got the meat - the springs/shocks/struts and basic geometry - set up correctly. If you have a poor shock/spring/strut setup, roll bars alone won't fix major handling problems by themselves.





As far as the strut tower brace goes, I'd guess that other than looking cool under the hood, you won't notice much improvement in handling because of it, especially if you're not pushing the car to it's absolute limits in a racetrack-type setting (like when driving it on the street).|||Front strut bar will stiffen up the front end and might give you a little more confidence in a sudden turn. I doubt a rear strut bar would have a major noticeable effect for you but its possible. Anti roll bars, or sway bars, will help to keep the car flatter in turns, but you have to be careful how big you go with them because you can change the behavior of the car.





If you go to a bigger rear sway bar the car will have more of a tendency to oversteer (have the back end slide out) at its limit. If you increase the front bar size the car might understeer (front end tries to go straight while turning) more. If you upgrade them together it might stay balanced.





On most FWD cars it is fun to upgrade to a bigger rear sway bar because you can get a little oversteer out of it, but that's my perspective.





The downside of going to bigger swaybars is you have more of a chance of lifting a wheel if you do anything like Auto-x. But that shouldn't come into play in normal driving.





Honestly, the best way to spend your money is probably on a better set of tires. Tires are what makes 90% of the difference as they are the only thing that connects you to the road.





If you find out exactly what springs and struts you have, I'm sure there are some Honda people on here who could give you some better specific advice|||You can get a thicker rear sway bar to help the car turn-in better in the corners. For normal driving you wouldn't even notice it though. There's no way to fit a rear strut bar, so don't even worry about that one.





So I'd say put on the front strut bar, and get a rear sway bar from a 2004 Acura TL-S. You can get it brand new from the dealer (online) for about 50 bucks (complete with bushings and mounts; it's a direct bolt-in).

How much should I expect to pay to have this work done to my car? (UK)?

I have a mazda 323F 1999 (V reg), failed the MOT test on offside rear anti-roll bar linkage, having excessive wear in a ball bearing. I've booked it in at a garage for repair tomorrow, but not sure what I should expect to pay for the parts and labour? I'm a bit wary about being ripped off!





Best answer gets 10 points!|||most id pay being a mechanic 拢50 30odd quid for part and mabe 拢20 labour depending on siezed bolts ect

Ford KA, knocking from front suspension and steering feels very light, poor handling?

I've got a 2004 Ford KA. The front lower arm bushes are slightly split (not an MOT failure but marginal) I've purchased Powerflew bushes to replace these and also the front Anti Roll bar bushes. Top strut mount rubbers also look worn as theres a gap between the rubber and the mounting. Would these also cause an odd feeling in steering and an occasional knocking sound?|||they will contribute to odd feeling in steering. possibly to a knock too but more likely will be a suspension damper failure.renew both at same time only.|||I changed the bushes and the knocking has gone!

Report Abuse

How to enhance my car handling?

Better springs like Eibach. Better shock absorbers like koni? Also I want to insert better brakes. Any place online to get anti roll bar. I can't find my car Eibach and Koni for my car. The one I one. If I buy a different one than the one for my vehicle, will it fit. I also plan to get michelin pilot sport 16" to replace my 14" tire. Of course I don't expect it to handle like lotus exige, but I want it to handle much better.





This is the car I have. It is the first generation car that is listed there. So what things I left out for a better handling.Thanks!|||Simply put, better springs, shocks wheels etc. is not the answer.





The answer is to get a good set of springs that matches your car weight and weight distribution, shocks that match those springs, wheels and tires that match with those wheels and shocks. All of that has to match your driving style.





How do you take a corner? Do you slow down then accelerate when you turn? Or do you come in fast, brake hard then turn?





Also, take into consideration environmental factors. Are you driving on asphalt or cement? Is the road smooth or bumpy?





There are so many combinations possible and only a few of them will be to your liking.





Work on it slowly, one at a time. Start with the springs. If the springs suit you, then try changing the shocks. Then wheels and tires. Once you got it nailed, work on replacing the stock suspension parts with stronger aftermarket ones. Like the bushings, brake rotors, etc. The new parts will push the car to the limit and will take its toll on the stock parts.





Hope that helps.|||aftermarket shocks

What will happen if i continue to drive this week with a knocking banging noise?

coming from the ledt hand side of the engine, i think or near there. i am putting the car in to a garage on thursday but just wondering is it safe to drive aproximaely 12 miles a day? im guessing its the anti roll bar, wishbone, bush, bearing or something like this.|||If the noise is a knock, knock, knock noise then its probably a problem with the drive shaft. If the problem has only started then a 12 mile should be fine.


Ja.|||never could you be sure but it make more sense not to drive it any more than you have to thinking that at any time now the front end break and what ever way the car goes will not be the way you wish it too...... so no dont drive it any at all|||No one can tell you for sure what will happen until the cause of the noise is identified. If I were you, I will not take the chance. Consider safety also, as you have no idea exactly what causes the noise. The car may be even unsafe to be driven.|||At least you are acting on the noise





some people just turn the music up louder !!





Could be lots of things.... I would look under the bonnet and underneath just if you can see something obvious !





Dont want your engine dropping out





If you had a make and model... maybe a common fault could be shared with you ?





dont really want a bottom ball joint popping out and you loose your steering and hurt someone|||Hi





It sounds as though you may have a broken drop link or a broken anti roll bar support bracket or bush.





People do tend to drive as though nothing is wrong when they encounter these problems and never seem to have any problems, mainly due to the fact that they don't really have that much effect on the handling, but then theres a first time for everything.





If on the off chance its a wishbone bush or balljoint then you are best advised not to drive the car until it is rectified or you could end up losing a wheel.





It does, however, sound like a drop link or anti roll bar bush or bracket gone awry. I am not going to advise you that it is safe to drive the car because that would be unprofessional and unethical, but like I said, people do tend to get away with driving cars with these problems present, and as I also said, theres a first time for everything.





Very best regards





Geordie|||I would not drive he vehicle if I were you it might cause more damage and will coast you more.

Will anti-roll features increase the life of the car?

Such as strut braces or sway bars.|||aside from possibly helping with tire wear probably wouldn't make a noticeable difference|||well.. how many cars have you flipped? if your answer any more than 0 probibly... those systems are desiugned to keep your wheels on the ground|||Take safety measure while doing

Front Stabilizer Bar for '91 Protege - Where to buy?

I'm in need of a front stabilizer bar (aka sway bar, anti roll bar) for a '91 Mazda protege LX. I need the actual bar, not just the links or bushings. The only place I could find that carried it is the Mazda dealership, which wants $200 for it - quite a bit for a steel bar with a couple bends if you ask me. I see tons of performance ones for the Miata and RX-7 / RX-8 online for less than that, but haven't been able to find one for my car.





Anybody know a place in Toronto or Ottawa, or a website that would sell this part? (and ship to Canada at a reasonable rate)|||First I would call all the junk yards around, one of them is bound to have one. If not then you can start searching the net for junk yards. If none have one then your probably out of luck. You could try places like www.summitracing.com or www.jegs.com

Does a v6 99 mustang coupe come with anti roll stuff?

does it come with sway bars and whatever else there is?||| From the factory, the 1999 Ford Mustang had a 27mm anti-sway bar in front but none in the rear. This was done both to save money and to preserve the vehicle's innate understeer -- a handling trait that is safer for most drivers. GT Mustangs had 28mm bars in front and 23mm in back.

How dangerous is it to drive with broken stabilization (sway?) bar?

We have a 96 Ford Windstar minivan. The mechanic said the stabilization bar is broken. How dangrous would it be to drive even around town with it? I believe highway driving is out of the question, but am wondering if it would be okay to drive at slow speeds (Under 30 MPH) just around town until we get the money to get this fixed?





I tried looking on line to get a price estimate. Are stabilization bars the same thing as anti roll and sway bars?|||A front stabilizer bar is the same thing as a front sway bar. You wouldn't catch me driving a top heavy vehicle without a sway bar and solid end links. Ford has had more than their share of roll-overs with their roof heavy four wheel SUV's and vans *with front sway-bars. A van is the worst of the worst as far as top heavy goes. If you must drive it, "creep" around corners in town and stay away from speeds over 25 MPH.





You most likely could find one at a dead-car and truck cemetery for $15.- $20.00. They're super easy to install.|||Very. You shouldn't drive until it's fixed. It does exactly what it says on the can: it stabilises the car. Without it, your car could veer off course even at low speed, and cause an accident. Don't risk it. You might be out of pocket for a while but that's better than being killed or seriously injured, or having someone else's death or serious injury on your conscience.|||very dangerous. if the nose of the car dips to suddenly the cars momentum with make it spin out. i am a master certified machanic ive seen this happen before. plus it happed to my wife. she wasent exacly driving on a broken sway bar. the sway bar broke wile in a turn and the sudden drop in teh front end made the rear end fly out with its own momentun. she ended up 75 yards off the road in the woods about 60 yards past the turn it self. only travalling at about 35 mph. its very dangerous. dont do it. that was in a small car aswell. a van with a much higher center of gravity would probly flip over. and the chance of that with a broken sway bar is pretty good too.|||Well there are two different components. There is a sway bar which would go across the front and back and the sway bar is connected to stabilizer links that are bolted to the control arms. It should be ok to drive. You will just have to go easy on turns and changing lanes|||it,s very dangerous.it can throw you off the road and maybe hurt you really bad dear. if you feel you have to drive it that way for awhile then watch out for pot holes and take the turns really slow. i doubt that the bars itself is broke. it,s probably just the bushings.

What is the best anti-roll kit or strut/sway bars to improve handling on a 99 mustang gt?

yea I'm looking to improve my handling, i just purchased a new drive shaft to withstand the 475rwhp I'm putting to the ground, now i took it to the track she runs pretty good and i made it to the finals but the 2 things that are killing me is it has so much power in the front end it hops up and i almost take off on 2wheels. 2nd my rear wheels spinning out and my rear end fishtailing when i shift, and I've lowered my suspension as well for those punks in camaros who pull up to the light and want some on the street, and so that i can take turns better too. so I've been looking at strut/sway bars and anti-roll kits and i just wanna know if anyone out there knows who has the best quality and price. Thanks.|||I highly doubt you have that much horsepower. Haha, just kidding. In a drag race you want the front end to come up so it can transfer the weight to the rear. While the other poster had the right idea he explained it incorrectly. You would want stiffer springs in the rear and softer in the front. It depends what you want to do. Do you want to drag race or go around corners? If you drive it on the street your suspension will be a compromise. It's tough to have the best of both worlds. Definitely replace the rear control arms and have the torque boxes welded. Definitely install subframe connectors as well, Mustangs are known to flex a lot. Also install a good locking differential, like an Auburn Pro, Detroit locker or something like that. If you have that much power you need to put it down using both tires. If you want to go around corners I would look at griggs racing, they are awesome. http://griggsracing.com/ Steeda, saleen are also very good. Grab a Summit or Jegs catalog as well. They have tons of parts for Mustangs. There are also very good articles at http://www.musclemustangfastfords.com/in鈥?/a>





Sorry if I came off harsh before but there are so many silly posts on here. 475 rwhp is a ton and a car like yours could run in the 10's. That is real fast. You wouldn't have to worry about much on the street. That's why I questioned you before about beating a diesel truck. You should be able to annihilate a diesel truck with the kind of power you have. I would dyno your car to make sure what the guy told you was legit and not trying to rip you off. With that kind of power you will need to look at the clutch, trans and rear. Those pieces stock will not withstand that kind of abuse. Not sure where you live but if are in the Philadelphia area I could definitely hook you up with some dyno time and get you in at the track. Post some pics and/or video of the car as well, I want to see it! Good luck with the car, have fun, be safe and waste every Camaro you can.|||Steeda makes great suspension parts for high horsepower Mustangs.|||Have you tried drag radials when you drag race people? They work wonders for launching.





If you want to get more traction during acceleration, you want stiffer springs up front and softer springs out back. This will cause the car's weight to transfer to the rear wheels and traction will be increased. However, handling will suffer. You really have to make a compromise here. What is more important, drag racing or cornering?





For parts, www.truckperformance.com has reasonable prices, and yes, they do carry Mustang parts.

Why aren't anti-roll bars used in ATV's...?..?

generally...?..|||Weight, cost, and they would get stuck on things.|||Weight and expense, generally.

Quad bikes anti roll Barr's?

can you fit a anti roll bar on one of these bikes as I was thinking of getting a bike for my grand child


but after hearing about the death of the boy in the Ilse of Bute


are they safe|||depends on your grandchild and how he rides it


roll bars are thought to be not much use unless the occupant is strapped in to prevent them from falling off and the bike rolling over them


some good safety gear should keep him safe like a helmet with a body guard to protect his chest and back


the truth is most accidents are caused by people driving in a dangerous manner so make sure he understands the dangers and he should be fine

Where can i get anti-roll bars for my honda city type z? i live in the philippines?

http://www.hellwigproducts.com/ is the only aftermarket sway bar company i am aware of

Do you think it is a big deal that a car does not have anti-roll bars?

The Civic vp (2005) coupe. Does it really make a difference and should I be worried if a car doesn't have one when shopping for used car?





How much would it cost to have installed? front and or rear?











Looking to buy it and I am on a budget with very little time to find a car. 8300 asking price from dealer, 84000miles, white, automatic, great condition.|||When you say "anti-roll bars", are you talking about the bars that go inside the passenger compartment to protect you in a rollover accident? Then no, very few cars have those installed, and then only if the car is going to be raced.





If you're talking about what are also called "anti-sway" bars, those go in the front and back of the car, and connect the left and right sides of the suspension to make the car not lean so much in a corner. The Civic comes with them stock, so I'd be concerned if you were looking at a car that didn't have them.|||Big deal? Not at all. Most cars don't have them, not even convertibles.


Keep the rolling bits down and the shiny side up.|||If your car needs roll bars, you don't need to be driving to begin with. Slow down, act like you have a brain, and keep the damn car on the wheels.|||Big deal if you are going to race drag it and put it on track, but for a daily driver, home to work to school, cruise in town NO.|||If you're driving a stock car around Daytona at 200 mph, perhaps. A daily driver does not need actual roll bars installed. Today's cars are very safe for the most part, unless you get into a god awful accident.|||Its not a big deal on coupes and sedans because the roofs have enough support to protect you, drive safe..|||If you think that you need roll bars in your car, you should not be driving on the hi-ways. You belong on a race track.

The front anti roll bars on my Skoda Fabia need replacing, what are they and how much should it cost?

Dealer has quoted just short of 拢200 (UK).|||that sound a bit extreme. can't think it'll be the actual bars that need replacing. Maybe the anti roll bar bushes will need replacing as they do wear with age, not familiar with your model so can't be certain.


It 's a part of the car that helps keep the alignment of your car true and ensures minimal roll when cornering etc.


get another quote elsewhere it costs nothing for a second oppinion. main dealers are always more expensive, maybe try a local garage thats not a main dealer, their labours cheaper. if your a bit of a diy man, buy a haynes manual 拢15 and do it yourself. they're not to difficult if you have a socket set, you,ll need to put your car on blocks and let the front suspension hang free. good luck|||look on the net thats your best bet you will find a big drop in what you are being charged|||The anti roll bars will not need replacing unless the car has been involved in an accident.They are their to steady the roll of the car when cornering.They are attached to the car by rubber bushes and it is these that need replacing.A good DIY man can do this quiteeasily for around say 25pounds.I have encountered the same problem with this model before and on investigation the dealer was simply trying it on.|||never heard of a Skoda are they any good?|||in gotta admire yr bravery admiting u got a skoda fabia, if i had one of those id leave it down aldis car park wheres it more at home|||I would just get another car!!!! :o)|||take it you mean the roll bar drop links, then about 1 hour labour for the pair plus parts, but certainly less than your quote

Swaybars / anti-roll bars running front-back to control acceleration squat and dive?

Have swaybars ever been tested that run front to back to control dive under braking and squat under acceleration? Can you point to any examples? Any drawbacks or reasons they aren't more widely adopted?|||I'm not aware of anyone that has run any setup like this, and I as I sit here and think about what you could accomplish with it, I can not think of any reason to do it.





Simply stiffening the suspension will control dive and squat... and doing this with an ARB would not gain any advantage over simply having stiffer springs.





In terms of drawback, the size of such a bar would add quite alot of unsprung weight to the car, and unless the chasis was modified, it would likely have to sit so low as to require the car to be raised (making side to side transition worse to achieve a very very marginal gain that could easily be gained elsewhere in setup). I would also be concerned with how such a setup would affect grip in a corner, having the front and back linked like that seems like a recipe for understeer - though this is more of a gut feeling from just starting to think about it, after more thought I might not feel this to be a real concern... though still see no reason why you would want to do it.|||The anti roll bar would have to be excessively large in diameter because of the length required. That would make it very heavy. I have never seen this system used but I am sure it has been because almost everything possible has been tried at one time or another.|||You can control squat and dive by the angles and geometry of the front a arms and spindles. It gets complicated fast, but you don't need a bar going front to back. If you really want to strain your brain and learn more, find, purchase, and read the book Engineer to Win by Carrol Smith.

Does Peugeot 206 1.1 (1999) has an "anti roll bar" (10 points)?

Currently buying brake discs





http://www.eurocarparts.com/ecommerce/Se鈥?/a>





Which one fits the car?





Thanks|||yes,the 1.1 206 has an anti roll bar,attached by 2 drop link bars.


link didn't work.

Hi, can anyone tell me a good price for a front offside wishbone and an anti roll bar for an audi a4avant 2001

Hello. - Links Below.





Good Luck.





Have a nice day. :)

MONDEO front ANTI ROLL BAR BUSHES?

do i have to drop the sub frame to change the stupid things the rear both is very close to the body and you can not take it out|||your on about the lower suspension arms...they dont have to come off to fit anti roll bar links/bushes...


but if the arms are coming off then the cradle has to be droped...its a stupid idea by ford..all the had to do is weld the nut on the top so the bolt would come out the bottom...


me i loosen it grind it in half,take it out,grind the nut from the bottom and bolt it from underneath with a nut at the top.

VW Golf MK4 Anti roll bar bushes?

I have a Golf GT TDI 130 it makes a creaking sound when I turn in low speeds or when I park, will this cause my car to Fail the MOT?|||No, It's not an MOT failure, but you should probably get it checked just to be on the safe side.|||Yes its a fail. If you dont believe me ask an inspector.

WHERE CAN I FIND PARTS FOR A FIAT REG 99 ANTI ROLL BAR,BUSHES AND BRACKETS?

IN GLASGOW|||rattrays motor spares near ibrox will either have them or will def.get them 0141 427 6517 use them all the time|||Ebay, Motor factors like partco or fastfit etc, Fiat dealership, online stores such as shop4parts.





Which model Fiat are we talking about exactly?|||Your local Partco will be able to get them!

I have a Jaguar XK8 with rear knocking. Not anti-roll bar, exhaust or shocker bush. Any ideas?

One of your wheels maybe loose, check them first. If not them, then it could be a UJ on the prop shaft.


You may also have a broken rear coil spring, sometimes it is difficult to see if these are broken.|||Record the sound with a portable audio recorder and play it back to an experienced Jaguar mechanic. Many mechanics can diagnose the problem just by sound. Other than that I'm no mechanic so good luck.|||The wallet you lost is under the rear seat

Where is the anti roll bar on a fiesta?

Under the front of the car connecting the 2 drop links near to the front wheel hubs.|||Not Actually a "Roll Bar" 4 Reinforced Sections of the Roof.|||Most commonly referred to as a sway bar...

I have a 02 renault clio 1.2 16 valve petrol can anyone tell me where to locate the anti roll bar linkage +?

how do i know if it is defective|||The anti roll bar is connected to the underside of the front wishbones by rubber bushes, these can perish due to being exposed the the elements also the bolt holding them together can snap. It is also mounted to the sub-frame but these bushes are usually OK.

HOW DO I CHANGE ANTI ROLL BAR BRUSHES ON A MK4 GOLF?

The stock rear bar doesn't have bushings. The front sway bar has three bushings per side, 2 in the end link and one around the bar itself. The end link ones press out/in pretty easily using a bench vise. The ones around the bar are replaced by removing the metal bracket, and pulling the bushing off the bar. They are slit and go on and off easy.|||There are two very strong plastic links to the front which I doubt very much will be faulty.The problem will be the "D" bushes to the rear near the tunnels where the drive shafts emerge. Ideally you need the car sitting on axle stands placed at the jacking point. You need to then lift slightly the lower track control arms with a trolley jack and unfasten both front plastic anti roll bar links. Once both have been unfastened you can check and replace if needed. The two "D" bushes are held in place by a "U" shaped bracket. This is where it gets interesting. Once you have loosened them you can remove the bushes and do the replacement. The interesting bit is that the roll bar itself will possibly be corroded which is the reason the bushes failed. You need to sand down the bar and then treat with something like Hammerite rust killer and after that has cured paint with a black Hammerite paint. If you do not do this the bushes will fail very quickly. Rebuilding is the same as removal except that you will have to position things with the trolley jack as you are putting the "tension" back into the roll bar and it may be just a little tricky to get things lined up.

What is the anti roll bar in a car for?




Usually found in cars that are "top heavy", it cuts down on the amount of roll from side to side when cornering so the vehicle doesn't become unstable or tip over.|||I think you might find a clue in the name - it's an anti-roll bar - its cuts down on the car body roll when it corners.

Sunday, November 20, 2011

How much will anti roll bar bush cost for a fiat punto?

From a motor factors it will be less than 拢10, from fiat it'll be double that at least.





I'd imagine 1 hours labour at a garage should cover fitting, so the supplied and fiited price:





In the region of 拢50 + vat.





Also on ebay 拢8.50:





http://shop.ebay.co.uk/items/_W0QQ_dmptZ鈥?/a>








hope this helps|||Probably around forty pounds which is unfortunate as this means it's about thirty pounds more than the car is worth.





Fix It Again Tomorrow - Fiat

Hi can anyone tell me how much it would cost to repair the rear anti roll bar on a 156 alfa romeo?

Depends it could the anti roll bar or its bushes.


A garage can quote after inspection.|||I could not tell you how much it is to repair anything at all unless you tell me what is wrong with it.


You would be well advised to look for a local Alfa dealer or an Alfa specialist garage

Ive just had a new clutch & a new anti-roll bar fitted my car is really creaky as it goes along any1 know why?

It is highly unlikely that the creaking is from the clutch unless the creaking only happens when the clutch pedal is pressed.





If the creaking noise has only occurred since these repairs were carried out, depending on the type of suspension on this vehicle it could be the roll bar has been misaligned during the re-tightening of the fittings or the bushes are miss-aligned; or it could be coincidence and not related to the repair in question. To be on the safe side you should have the repairer take another look at it.|||Glad to help!

Report Abuse


|||If it started after the new anti roll bar was fitted it is almost certainly the new rubber bushes in the bar. Take it back to the garage. If they know what they are doing they will squirt WD40 on the bushes which will stop the squeaks and actually help preserve the rubber.|||Sounds like the ARB clamp bushes have not been lubricated before fitting, maybe the clamp units are not tightly fitted, perhaps some of the suspension fixing bolts are not tight, or some of the components are out of line from their original position.

Whats the name of the bolt that connects the anti roll bar?

Anti roll bar bolt and anti roll bar nut just like you........|||The thing is called a sway bar link. This is a common problem to either break or the swivel part falls apart. |||I didn't know it had a special name. Mine is just a regular hex bolt. 14mm I think.

CV gaiter replaced,whilst doing that the garage has snapped an anti roll bar link and want me to pay for it?

Ive just a CV gaiter replaced on my 10 year old car ,and whilst doing that the garage has snapped an anti roll bar link and they want me to pay for the new link and the labour involved? I asked why did it snap and they've said it was corroded and just snapped, do I have to pay for it?|||It's hardly their fault a corroded part broke. Roll bar links corrode and break all the time, and it's often hard to see if they are really corroded or not if they have a sleeve. Just pay it and quit complaining. You should probably replace all of them at this point.|||Depends...


Did they quote a definite price for the repair, or just give an estimate. - usually the latter, plus materials. In which case, they are doing just that. The alternative would be to leave the broken link and tell you to fix it, ... Thus you pay for the authorised repair and arrange to have a transporter take the car elsewhere... BUT... Who does the Maintenance - your last service report should have included the warning that the anti-roll bar link was so weak enough to snap, so there is some onus on the maintenance man..|||hi, i inspect vehicles all the time and i also repair vehicles. i did the cv boots on a golf the other month and the same thing happend to me, the anti-roll bar link arms sheard due to being old and corroded. they would of been fine and passed a MOT no problem as there was no play present but as soon as you put a spanner on them, they just shear. not really the mechanics fault as this is part of the job, he should of briefed you up and explained but then again anything could happen on a job.|||The need for a new CV boot is often only picked up during an MOT inspection. Was yours? If it was, the alleged corroded to the edge of failure roll bar linkage should also have been noted too. If it wasn't I'd argue it must have been sufficiently sound not to have just snapped at the drop of a hat.|||The drop links can easily snap if badly corroded.


The corrosion won`t show up on the mot as its usually hidden by the rubber bushes.


As the link has to be removed to replace the cv boot,you should`nt have to pay for labour.|||was the garage called kwit fit or was it an independent garage that snapped the anti roll bar

I have a 02 renault clio 1.2 16 valve petrol where can i locate the anti roll bar linkage Thanks?

also how do i know if it is broken thanks|||If it rattles it's knackered!|||Look for a link from the body to the axle. It coul;d be at either end. If you pull on it and it rattles and bangs it's done

I have a 51 plate vectra sri 130 2.2 diesel, when stearing the track rods are scraping on anti roll bar.?

Can anyone shed any light why this could happen, chears.|||Has the car been lowered? I suspect that if its a standard set up there may be a problem with the wishbone bushes.


Ja.|||Could it be broken/worn anti roll bar links?or bushes.

What are racing anti roll bars made of, and what is a typical design for them?

i'm have to design an anti roll bar for a touring car for a project at uni.... can anyone help?|||1 and 3/4 inch round steel.095 wall. No soft steel or aluminum. Must be welded completely. No gaps|||there made out of 2 inch or 2 1/2 tubular steel the design ....what ever you think will support the car best

FORD FIESTA MARK 4 ANTI ROLL BAR BUSHINGS CLAMPS DO I NEED TO DROP THE SUBFRAME & USE SPECIALIST TOOLS?

My ford fiest anti roll bar bushing clamps have snaped. The haynes manual says I need to drop the subframe, disconnect gearbox linkage and steering etc. A major job just to replace 2 clamps over a bit of rubber. On top of this it states I need to use specialist tools to then put back together.





My question- is there a short cut to avoid dropping the subframe and all that goes with it and do I really need the specialist tool to realign the subframe?


|||yes|||Dropping the sub frame is probably a procedure for replacing the sway/anti-roll bar. If you can get a socket or wrench on the bolts that hold the clamps, simply unbolt them and replace the clamps.

FORD FIEST MARK 4 ANTI ROLL BAR BUSHINGS CLAMPS DO I NEED TO DROP THE SUBFRAME & USE SPECIALIST TOOLS?

My ford fiest anti roll bar bushing clamps have snaped. The haynes manual says I need to drop the subframe, disconnect gearbox linkage and steering etc. A major job just to replace 2 clamps over a bit of rubber. On top of this it states I need to use specialist tools to then put back together.





My question- is ther a short cut to avoid dropping the subframe and all that goes with it and do I really need the specialist tool to realign the subframe?|||The correct way to do it is to drop the sub frame. However in the real world all you need to do is fit a bottle jack between the anti roll bar and the sub frame. Loosen the clamp and jack the anti roll bar down enough to get the rubber bush out.


Ja.|||use strapping to hold the anti roll bar together but be careful. i dont know about the fiesta but on my mondeo i used an extension socket to align the subframe maybe you can do the same

Change front anti-roll bar bushes on Ford Focus.?

Please can someone tell me (or point me to) instructions for changing the front anti-roll bar bushes on a Ford Focus, 1.6, 2003 (53) Petrol? Looks like just two bolts on each clip? Do I need to undo the drop links to be able to slide the bush on from one end of the ARB or are the bushes split so you don't have to slide them all the way down from one end (or would this make them pretty useless?) Questions, questions.....please help





Thanks





Ash|||I believe you meant sway bar bushings. A sway bar is a sort of anti-roll feature for the body of the car since it keeps the body from leaning too far to one side in a turn.


The bushings are cut on one part so you can push them over the bar. They're self explanatory when you look at them. They will have a small bracket that goes over each bushing that holds them onto the body of the car and usually is held on with 2 bolts.


Some cars have polyurethane or urethane bushings available to replace the stock rubber type ones. Prothane and Energy Suspension are 2 big brands but there are probably more out there. The urethane or polyurethane will be stiffer and flex less which will make the car lean less as well.

Can a broken or faulty anti roll bar cause all these things ?

for nearly two months my car has felt really dodgy, it basically dits lower on one side randomly when driving then will sit normal for a while then feel lower on the opposite side at other points. it also feels like when im driving the car is sliding slightly left and right and not just the front wheels but the whole car, almost like driving on ice.





This week i also started to notice a clunking noise when i turned the wheels left and right and ive been told that it needs a anti roll bar, but the noise only began this week but the opther problems were theyre for a month or so.





can i take it the other problems are not related to the anti roll bar as it has only started clunking this week ?|||This is more than a problem with the antiroll bar and it sounds like the suspension is badly worn generally. Needs expert attention now.|||Like the guy that answered before this it is too dangerous to drive like that and to go on info of people here, it would be better to have a mechanic or someone you know is experianced to look at the car.|||too dangerous to drive like that. don't rely on folks guessing what's wrong without looking - go to a mechanic.|||I wish you would have told us what you are driving. Some Lincolns have Air suspension that could have a problem but it sounds more like the bushings in your suspension are shot. With out the bushings the suspension will move around a lot.

I got a ANTI ROLL BAR LINK fitted to my renault clio 1.2 16valve after failing mot but think the mechanic?

fitted it on the wrong side as the weel hub tie was broken on drivers side and mot fail said front near side ANTI ROLL BAR LINK defective the docket i got from renault said LHF ANTI ROLL BAR LINK replaced does LHF stand for the left side and there is also still a ratteling noise comeing out of the front of the car when i go over rough surfaces could this ratteling noise still be the broken link or how do i know if it is broken as it is in for mot again this wednesday Thank's in advance|||LHF and NSF are the same thing and are the front passenger side of the car.The wheel does not have to come off to replace the anti-roll bar link if its replaced on a garage ramp The link will be shiny and new and can be seen through the wheel arch if you turn the steering on full lock..Hope this helps|||Left and right are viewed as if you are sitting in the drivers seat looking forward. Nearside is near to the kerb, offside is to the right.


The anti roll bar link should be easily viewable from either under the bonnet or under the car. It's either black matt or shiny matt.


They wont have ripped you off for work like that. The newspapers would have a field day. Also it's fairly common for them to go. They simply corrode and fall apart.


Unless you went to Cross Street garage in Wakefield, West Yorkshire. In that case they would have fleeced you. Oops - have i just dropped them in it?|||LHF stands for left hand front, the same as front near side.

Ford mondeo 97 anti roll bar?

while trying to grind a bolt of on my stabilizer arm...we by mistake took a small grind out of the anti roll bar itself......how serous is this|||it shouldnt cause to much problem but if under extreme pressure it will be slightly weakened. You could always fill it back out with something like chemical metal to re strenghthen it|||I wouldn't worry about it at all. It's spring steel and should not crack because of the scratch.


Mike

I failed mot on my 02 renault clio because of anti roll bar linkage being broken on nearside front?

can anyone tell me which side is near side front left or right ? as mechanic fited it on right side|||When people say "near side" or "off side"





That means which side of wheels are closest to the curb.





So in your case.





Near side - front = Front wheel passenger side|||NSF is on the front left as viewed from the driver's seat.

How to replace the front anti roll bar bushes on a 1999 ford focus hatch back?

There are two bushings on the bar, %26amp; their job is to isolate the noise the bar picks-up from the suspension from getting into the cabin. The factory bushings are rubber, maybe an inch or wider, %26amp; 'C' shaped from the side. The bushing is slipped over the round anti-roll bar, then the bushing %26amp; the bar are clamped to the frame of the car. Not hard to replace them - Just drop the two clamps, replace the bushings, %26amp; bolt the clamps back to the frame. The anti-roll bar does not support any weight, so you can undo the clamps without anything else moving, with the car either on the ground or on a lift.|||Unbolt the bracket holding the bush in place,lever the bar down slightly to release the bush and get the new one into place.Refit the retaining bracket.Hope this helps|||If you don't know get the job done professionally. there is no place for amateur mistakes in front suspension

Mk4 golf longer anti roll bar links?

i have lowered my mk4 golf gti 1.8t, and now the drive shaft rubs on the anti roll bar. i have herd that you can solve this with a longer drop link and that this would be a vw part. somthing bout plastic and metal drop links. does anyone please have a part number for the link i need. cheers Arran|||http://www.ecstuning.com/Search/End_Link/ES9492/|||ebay man

Ford Ka - Anti Roll Bar Banging?

I have a P reg Ka and have replaced the "wishbone" on the N/S front wheel 3 times in less than one year. Has anybody else had similar probs. I have a constant banging from the underside of the vehicle which seems to come from this area - could it actually be the anti-roll bar? How difficult is it to repair? The ride is extremely uncomfortable particulary if I am carrying passenger/s.|||My wifes Ka developed the same noise even after replacing the 'wishbones' I have had the anti roll bar mounts checked along with the rest of the suspension.I have been told it's the n/s track rod where it attaches to the steering rack.These are not dear to buy but you will have to have the tracking realigned after fitting.


I had to replace wishbones after 7500mls(cheap aftermarket items! )|||the bar is broken and come away from its mount it needs replacing just had the same thing on my husbands car last week it was not too expensive but my husband did the job him self don't know how much a garage would charge.hope this helps a little.|||it sounds like something is broken if your not mechanically minded ask someone who is to take a look for you or take it to a garage some will not charge for looking and they can give you an idea of the cost involved





happy motoring|||possible causes- antinrollnbarnlink worn, inner anti roll bar bush worn, broken road spring, top strut mountain, lower wishbone/ball joint. these are all very common problems.|||i think this car needs to go to a garage as ie never heard of a car needing 3 wishbones in a year.

Average LABOR Cost for installing pro-kit springs, Dampers, and Anti Roll Bar kit?

I might purchase the Pro-System Plus made by Eibach, and If I do, Iam buying the set from TireRack for $778 to install on a 99 CIVIC EX. I wanted to know how much is the average labor work to install them. I live in Newark, NJ. How do you find a shop to trust besides online feedback?|||labor runs anywhere from $60/hr to $85/hour. You should be able to find a labor manual that gives you the minimum labor hours for the job ( usually 4). You can also get free estimates from local shops.

Is replacing front off side anti roll bar link on a Nissan Micra 1999 model a difficult Job?

I have been quoted 拢85 and the new linkage is only 拢10 so was thinking of having ago myself. Any help much appreciated. thanks|||purchase the bit then take off the wheel and you will see the anti roll bar link which you are replacing. you will manage yourself, just loosen the nuts at the anti role bar end and the other at the strutt, if it starts to spin get the open end of a spanner in behind the nut next to the ball joint and you can carry on taking them off.|||Dead easy. Take a look at your new drop link to see which tools you will need and add a pair of good molegrips to the list just in case you need them for the old link. Even a beginner should be able to do this job in well under an hour.|||no anyone can do it.

Where can we buy anti roll bar links for our 1994 austin rover maestro van?

the rover is 1994 -L reg-deisel 700--2 litre--we have tried everywhere inc internet but no luck--we need this to get the mot passed--|||Hi


There is a company in Lincoln called Rimmers they will supply you all the parts you need for your vehicle .





They are also on the net !











Hope this helps|||If its a front anti roll bar?You can remove it and get an MOT,as its not fitted as standard to this vehicle.Hope this helps|||Anything to do with this?





http://www.gumtree.com/london/26/2569502鈥?/a>

I have a fiat multipla and the anti roll bar you can move side to side with your hand is it surposed to do thi?

the anti roll bar on my fiat multipla moves side to side when i grab it with my hand why is it doing this and how can i stop it many thanks|||No. Either the bar or the mounting is broken. It's unsafe and an MOT failure, get it sorted.|||There should be two brackets where the mid part of the bar mounts to the frame of the car. These mounts will have rubber bushings in them, so the bar can pivot, but not easily. There are also mounts at each end of the bar where it's mounted to the suspension, usually thru an arm or link. These mounts will also have rubber bushings in them, sometimes two sets, because the bar pivots at a different arc then the suspension does, %26amp; these bushings take-up the angle changes. If you can move the sway bar ( actually an ANTI-sway bar ) with your hand, then the bushings someplace are worn %26amp; need replaced. And if some of them are worn, replace all of them. It's not a hard job, can be done in the drive way with a decent floor jack.|||the reason why the said u would have to replace the 2 of them is because the drop links have to be removed to get to the anti roll bar bushings. i would recommend u replace both better safe than sorry.

Changing anti roll bar rubbers?

can you change back anti roll bar rubbers on mitsubishi shogun with out taking axel out|||short answer, yes

Anti roll bar bushes on a fiesta t reg?

does any one know how to change the anti roll bar bushes on mi fiesta. do you just undo the u clamp %26amp; replace the rubber bushes, it s a t reg fiesta. do you need to remove anything else to get to it.|||i work in a motor shop,and my advice would be let a mechanic do it..but be careful make sure its somebody you know because a lot of these so good garages are rip offs|||thats right, jack up the car put axle stand under chassis take away the jack undo the clamp lever down the anti roll bar slide out the old bush fit the new one , they both have splits in to take them off. same the other side job done.

94 Ford Mondeo diesel manual,help.need advice,flat-spot and anti-roll bar bushes?

had the car for 4 months now and does little mileage,has done 173,000 already and needs anti-roll bar bushes fitted,what's the procedure?+the car has a flat spot around 2500rpm.is this a turbo problem,like maybe coolant or knackered turbo,otherwise a reliable motor,also ,is it true that they are heavy on the front and wear tyres on the outside,i have noticed this on mine and have been told it's a Ford thing,all answers appreciated,only those whom know the mechanics please reply.thanks.|||Hi,


The anti roll bar has 2 bushes, and 2 drop links,one on each end of the bar,the bushes are held in place by a bracket which is held in place by 2 bolts,these clamp the bush/ roll bar to the front sub frame,just undo each of the bolts and remove the bracket then with draw the bush if you need to replace the drop links ,theses attach the ends of the roll bar to the suspension strut then simply undo the the nut that secures it to the strut and then undo the one that secures it to the end of the anti roll bar.





Turbo.. could just be wear and tear,as already suggested check the condition of all hoses,but do remember that turbo lag is always to be expected on a fairly old design of diesel .








Mk 1 Mondeos do have a habit of wearing their front tyres one thing that helps is to get the tracking set to 0 degrees,but do this after you've done the anti roll bar,they were also quite heavy on their front wish bone bushes,so maybe you should get these checked as well





I used to work for a Ford parts supplier and anti roll bars and the bushes along with wishbones were always in demand|||Hi,


The flat spot around 2500 rpm could be due to a loose air hose.


Some vehicles are designed toe in and or negative camber.


Better have it all verified and adjusted as per manufacturers specifications.





Good luck

Just bought a car and the guy says it has had an anti roll bar fitted on the engine.?

When u drive the car it makes a starnge noise and the guy says this is down to the anti roll bar setting in, is this true.|||They install a bar between the front strut towers under the hood. This is supposed to stiffen the body of the car. If it is installed correctly, you should not hear any movement betweent the body and the installed bar. No, it is not from the bar "settling in". It is either installed correctly or incorrectly. It may be loose, or the noise could be coming from another part of your suspension. Have it looked at.|||very strange i have never heard of an engine having an anti roll bar fitted. these are usually situated underneath the car to minimise roll when your cornering. they work with suspension not the engine. maybe there is an after market strut bar fitted, you would notice this straight away its just a bar that fits across your engine from one suspension leg to the other but again this should not affect the engine noise i would suggest getting a friend to look who knows a bit about cars otherwise take it to a garage|||i have heard of this and its quite common. the engine doesnt start, you get mad and take your biggest breaker bar and proceed to junk both items, hence engine anti-roll bar.|||I too have never heard of an anti roll bar on an engine??? I'm not quite sure if this guy knows what he's talking about. I've been working on cars for most of my life and I have never come across this. I would definitely take your car to a garage to see whats going on. Good luck!!

I own a 65 Tbird hardtop coupe, I want to replace my front anti-roll bar bushes with polyurethane ones.?

The anti-roll bar is a UK term, is it called a "sway bar" in the states.


What are the bushes parts no and who can supply them fast.|||were you in the states id say call "larry's thunderbird and mustang" parts. there are numerous places that sell them. Keep in mind that poly bushings will squeek, but they are far superior for handling, I have a 66 mustang that i put them on. FAR better.|||call PST or see if they have a website as they make polyurathane bushings for just about everything.

Mot failuire anti roll bar excessive play?

My car just failed mot because there is excessive play in a bush (on the drop link) to rectify would it be a case of taking out the old bush and putting a new one in or is there more to it than that?|||You've got some very silly answers there !! Of course it depends on the car, some still use replaceable bushes in the links, but most are now one piece links which need to be replaced completely. The anti-roll bar itself will be mounted in bushes but yours are ok. Some links are fitted with tapered swivels which can be a bit difficult to separate. Go to a motor factors and see what they suggest. Good luck!|||Can be a very easy job, as you describe, but it's more difficult on some cars. Tell us what car (model, age) and you might get more specific advice from someone with specific expertise on that car.





Replace all the anti-roll bar bushes at the same time, as another person advised. It may be necessary to undo both sides anyway, so it would be silly to put old ones back on the side that passed.





No need to replace the complete bar. If it was a suspension arm with permanently fitted pivot rubbers and integral ball-joint, etc, then replace the whole thing, but not in this case.|||A decent garage, which yours may not be, would not charge you for a retest on one item if you brought it back in say a few days. Next mot find a reasonable test centre. In Hampshire, Adams Morey, a fairly large company, operate like this. There must be others. I would replace all anti roll bushes as they are all the same age and will fail within a short time of each other.|||you should have let the garage do it its only a ten minute job with the right tools it would onle cost about 拢40 with the part as well with taking it away from the garage for repair you will have to pay a retest fee of about 拢45 on top of the price for doing the job|||The nut/bolt could need tightening up, thats all. Worked for me. A bit of WD40, new split pin, sorted.





You can of course replace the bushes, thats both sides, cant do one with out doing the other.|||All these people know nothing.








Its pointless replacing the bushes, you might aswell replace the entire anti-roll bar.





That will cost a bit more, but its worth it.|||it depends on if the anti-roll bar has serviceable parts, i.e. bushes, your garage should be able to advise, or consult the workshop manuals, such as Haynes.|||It depends what vehicle your talking about,some are very easy others have metalastic bushes that need pressing in with high pressure so i cant really answer your question.|||i would have chgarged you 拢40 to do this during MOT inspection its a 10 minute job

If I was to put a anti roll bar underneath my car would I need just 1 or 2?

It is a rear wheel drive car. Thanks.|||That is completely up to you. Most likely your car does have a stock anti roll bar in the front, at the least. You have the option of installing an anti roll bar on the either the front or the rear of the car, or both.





Some people like different feelings for different vehicles. It depends on your preference and driving style. Personally if you aren't too picky, beef up the front one a little and install a good thick rear say bar.|||All cars are already fitted with anti roll bars.|||Just one will do da thing|||You already have one in the front, unless maybe you're driving something like a 58 Chevrolet truck.





It certainly makes a difference in handling whether you beef up both ends. This is really noticeable if you have a stiff bar on the rear and not the front. Ideally, you need "big" swaybars on both front and rear.|||That depends entirely upon the kind of car and what you are trying to achieve. Different types of use will require different setups.





In other words, we need more information.

Any tips for fitting anti roll bar bushes to a ford mondeo?

will warming them up make them easyer to fit?|||warming them might, but I use a good silicone lube and make sure the bar itself is clean, no rust or extra paint.|||Warming them would make them bigger?Put them in the freezer if you need to make them smaller?Making sure the arm is clean, and rust/paint free also helps

My anti roll bar is bent on my mk 4 escort cabby?

didnt no if i can use any other anti roll bar from a escort like a mk 2 or 5??





thanks!|||there only interchangeable between the mk3 and 4....

How would i tell if the "nearside front anti-roll bar linkage has excessive play in a ball joint"?

Is this when you raise the car, grab the wheel at 12 %26amp; 6 / 3 %26amp; 9 and check it that way?





peugeot 306 fwd|||If the MOT guy says it, it's probably so.|||With the car jacked up you position a lever (a longish steel bar or similar) under the end of the anti roll bar next to the joint. As you lever the anti roll bar up and down you will see the ball joint moving. It shouldn't move at all. Be careful to have the car supported well. Put the wheel flat under the car for safety, or use axle stands. With a two foot long lever you should not need to stick your head under the wheel arch to view the joint. If the mot man has pointed it out, just renew it as they are not expensive items. You then will have to use axle stands as replacing the link means head under wheel arch and levering the anti roll bar to line up the link. Look at the new link as usually you have to insert a hexagon wrench (allen key) in the end and use a ring spanner otherwise the joint turns rather than unscrews.|||No you dont check anti roll bar links this way because they will be free to move when the vehicle is raised.





you check them why its on the ground. get under the car and tug at the links to check for play.

Anti roll bar unit replacement?

After a heavy clunking sound whilst driving the garage tells me i need new anti roll units on my Toyota Yaris as the rubber washers are missing.They have quoted 拢80 for the pair, is this reasonable?|||WTF?? Pardon my French! The Yaris has only been around for 5 minutes, how the Hull have you ruined ARB bushes? Driven the Paris - Dakkar Rally lately? Anti-roll "units"? 99.9% of cars have Anti-Roll Bars fitted, usually front and rear. They are wrapped in rubber "bushes" where they secure to the car, to stop grinding of metal on metal, and the bushes CAN become tired and crumble, after years of heat and cold, oil and vibration.


The bushes should be less than a tenner for all that you need. Just remove the bar with a socket wrench, fit the new bushes, and replace. Easily done in an hour on 99.9% of cars (I have done it in under 20 minutes on some!). Garages rely on people fearing the worst, and not knowing how to do the VERY SIMPLEST of things to a car. Who do you call to put a new plug on your toaster? If you can do that, you can do this!|||if its just the rubber washers that r getting replaced i think the price is too high.....but if they r replacing the bar and links too then i think its good price|||no, bushes are about 拢2 each

Need help with my car! how do i remove the back bushes from a feista on an anti roll bar?

This is not a gardening question before anyone writes an answer about getting rid of weeds.





I need to know how to remove the back bushes from the anti roll bar on my fiesta. It's a 1993 model. Help needed.





thanks|||you just replace the whole bar complete with the new bushes, its not actually a bar from what i remember, its made from pressed steel, one large bolt through either end holding it on through the bushes|||You need to use a puller or hydraulic press, not something the average DIY'er would possess.|||anti roll bar on a fiesta ??? rear ???

What does an anti-roll bar do?

A clunking noise can be heard particularly as I drive over speed bumps, so I took it to a car repair centre to see what it was.


They said it's the Anti-Roll bar and that the 'bushels' have come loose.


My dad wants to see if he can repair this himself, is this possible?|||As a car goes around a corner, it will tend to sway outwards. The weight shifts to the outer wheels relative to the turn which causes that side to lower while the inside will tend to raise up. This causes a difference in position relative to each side.





The bar you speak of is connected to both the lower control arms on either side which itself connects the wheels to the frame. The bar will resist the difference of vertical position of the right and left sides. This results in less sway when going around corners. For dynamic stability, it is very important to sway as little as possible yet not be so rigid that the inside wheels lose grip or even come off the ground. The manufacturer designed the parts to give good performance. If you lose the sway bars, you will lose the stability. The shocks help with stability as well, but they may be worn as well. If you turn back and forth a few times quickly, it is possible to flip the car without sway bars in tact and aging shocks.





This repair isn't hard. It's a matter of replacing a couple parts. The key is to inspect other suspension parts to ensure that they have not been damaged or are worn out. Turn the wheel far over and take a look. Are there any parts that are cracked, rusted through, broken or sheared off? Usually a serious problem will be obvious to even an untrained eye.|||Called a sway bar the antiroll bar is connected to suspension on both sides of the car's suspension. Yes if Dad can get the bushings and end link parts the sway bar is owner serviceable with minium sockets vice grips and wrenches. However some cars like my 2006 GTO the sway bar is burried on top of the suspension cross member and requires lots more work. Good luck|||It is called a anti-roll or sway bar. What has come loose are the "bushings". These are rubber mounts that fasten the bar to the vehicle. What a sway bar does is keep the frame and body of the vehicle centered over the suspension during cornering so the center of gravity does not shift too far over and cause your vehicle to roll over. It is a straight foward replacement, not to technical. Some vehicles are simpler than others.|||an anti roll bar keeps you from rolling over








duhh|||Anti roll bar is another name for a sway bar. It helps to reduce body lean or roll in a turn..





Like you drive around a curve, and you notice the car leans to what ever side the curve turns too.





It's very fix-able by your Dad. The bushings is what's worn or loose. Theres 2 sets of bushings. The sway bar bracket bushings and the end links.





The bracket bushings goes around the sway bar and a bracket goes over it and mounts to the frame/chassis of car.





The end links are a long bolt, and a few round rubber bushings, that goes through a hole in the end of the sway bar and bolts to the A arms (controll arms) of the suspension

Can somebody pls clearly tell me the difference between a torsion bar suspension and an anti roll bar?

are they the same thing or do they work on the same principle?|||Torsion bars twist to act like a spring on each wheel. They are used on some vehicles instead of a coil spring or a leaf spring. They set the vehicle ride height by spring loading each wheel.





Anti roll bars aka sway bars are totally different. You can have no anti roll bar or you can have one per axle (sports cars have one at the front, and one at the rear). They link the left side of the suspension with the right side of the suspension. It acts like a spring that resists the left and right sides being at different heights so that as the vehicle corners, it does not tip as much. For example, if you are turning left, your right wheels want to compress, and your left wheels want to lift, which causes the car to roll. The antiroll bar greatly limits this action causing the car to not roll during cornering, improving handling which you want in a sports car, or a giant SUV to prevent you from getting sea sick or loosing control of that big POS. In a real off road vehicle, they typically don't have sway bars because when crawling over obstacles, the wheels will need to move to different ride heights without such interference.|||the anti roll bar aka the sway bar connects the two struts of opposite sides of the wheels together creating a more firm steering. the torsion bar is attached to the chassis of the car. hope this helps.|||torsoin bars take the place of your springs . anti roll or sway bars stop side to side movement

Where and what is the "Anti roll bar link arm" on a peugeot 206 and what can damage them?

Firstly, the anti roll bar link arm is the link between the anti roll bar and the suspension, there is normally a ball joint on each end which can become worn and, or, disconnected, but to fail on severely misshapen is a new one on me unless the vehicle has been towed and someone has tied the rope to link and bent it out of shape..|||This is an arm that links the two suspension struts. Damage is usually caused by impact from an accident.





It may, on older vehicles have become damaged over time ad part of normal wear and tear, but the damage would be clearly visible if it were to fail an MOT.





If you open the hood you can see it as the bar going between the top of the two suspension arms (above the wheels).





The bar simply prevents the car from rolling as much when you're taking corners, depending on your driving style and the extent of any damage, you may or may not notice a difference.|||Its an elongated U shaped bar I__________I


conecting the front lower wishbones of the stub axles. it is mounted to the vehicle on two points near the bends in the bar. As you go round a corner it it transfers the down force from one side of the vehicle to the other if it is damaged or bent in any way or fixings worn it is MOT failure.|||While I Cannot Honestly Speak With Any Experience On A Peugeot 206 Because I Have Never Seen Or Worked On This Brand Of Vehicle. I Can Say That The Anti Sway Bar That You Are Most Likely Referring To Is Normally The Long Metal Rod That Stretches Almost To Each Wheel (Some Cars Have These Only On Front And Some Have Them On Both Axles).


What This Anti-Sway Bar Does In Plain English Is Just As The Name Implies, It Helps The Vehicle From Swaying From Side To Side. If One Of The Links Are Broken You Will Feel As Though You Have Lost Total Control Of Your Car.


These Can Be Damaged By Running Over Debris In The Road Or Hitting Pot Holes Or Curbs. You Normally Cant Fix Them You Typically Have To Replace A Damaged One (Not Counting Links)|||running with tyres with to much pressure or hitting potholes or bumping up on kerbs or if your area has alot of speed bumps . do not buy ones from moter factors buy proper dealer parts they should last longer

When an anti roll bar link is worn/faulty should there be any movement or play?

The car is an astra Mk 4. Car makes knocking noise over bumpy roads but cannot feel it through steering. I can twist the drop link quite easily on drivers side and passenger side a bit tighter. Should these be tight and have no movement at all? Thanks in advance for any advice guys.|||There will be some movement felt as you mention even in new ones. Other than the charecteristic knock it is often very hard or impossible to check them for wear whilst still on the car.|||Yes almost certainly the drop links and bushes need replacing, very common on that Vauxhall.





They are quite cheap as well, had mine changed on a Zafira last year for 拢120 inc labour by Vauxhall. 拢5 for drop links, 拢30 for the ARB bushes and 拢85 labour.





The clue is the knock on bumpy roads. Checking while the car has load on the suspension won't really tell you much, just get them changed.

How much will it typically cost for a garage to repair anti roll bar links and brushes on a Ford Mondeo?

Just want a price region for a UK garage. I don't mean like Kwik Fit (I have experienced a dishonest dealing with them previously at a Cheltenham outlet) but perhaps a small time garage mechanic.|||No more than a couple of hours labour... three tops if things are seized...at around 拢45-拢50 a hour depending on where you go, where in you are living in the UK plus cost of parts...it might be cheaper sourcing your own bits from europarts or allparts for it, most indepenant garages will fit parts supplied by the customer however they will not offer any warranty on work done with parts supplied by the customer.|||Anti roll bar drop links come with their joints already fitted and cost around 拢50 per side inc parts and labour

Suggest a modified anti roll bar that can comfort to the carriage and explain the mechanism.?

an anti roll bar can reduces vehicle sway,however at the same time transfer the up an down movement from one wheel to another wheel and reduces comfort to the carriage.suggest a modified anti roll bar that can comfort to the carriage and explain the mechanism..|||Mercedes Benz (among others) have devised a system that keeps the car level when cornering. It is a sophisticated hydraulic system controlled by a computer that takes its input from a number of sensors on the vehicle.


This gives a smooth ride and improves the vehicles cornering ability. The downside is the cost of such a system also there is more to go wrong!.

How do i replace a dammaged front anti roll bar on a bmw e36?

i have seen that it joins to the wishbone via the anti roll bar links,


but how does the bar remove from the car??


any ideas....||| This is a very easy repair. There are only 6 bolts. 4 are the mount bolts( 2 on each side), and 2 sway bar link bolts. The mount bolts attach to the sub frame. Good Luck!

How to adjust tire pressure and anti roll bar settings?

Car: BMW 330i 4 dr sedan E46


Weight: 3280 lbs


Distribution: 50/50 front to rear





I have modified the car as follows:





Increased diameter of front and rear anti roll bars to 27 mm front and 24 mm rear (they are adjustable and both front and rear are set to full soft settings - least stiff)


I have added front and rear strut tower connector bars


I have added Bilstein Heavy Duty Gas shocks (automatically adjustable; no user adjustments)





Tires





I use stock sizes: 225/45/17 front and 245/40/17 rear Continental Sport Contact 2s


The manufacturer recommends the following pressures: 30 psi front and 35 psi rear


I am running 32 psi front and rear





Question:





I want handling that is as close to pure neutral as possible


There are 3 settings on the rear anti roll bar. Should I adjust the rear to the medium setting? What will be the most likely affect? If it's close to neutral now, will this push the car towards oversteer?|||check your owner's manual

What anti roll bar problems would cause MOT failure?

What problems with the anti roll bar would cause a car to fail an MOT?





Its ok, I'm looking to put my car my car back on the road soon, and when I took her for an MOT in 2008, I had an advisory notice (yellow form) saying front anti roll bar corroded but not seriously weakened. Then when I took her for an MOT in 2009 they never even picked up on it.|||all anti roll bars corrode ,doesnt mean its an m.o.t faillure. the only part of the anti-roll bar are the rubbr bushes that split or crack which do become a failure..they are to stop the vehicle from swaying side to side motion.

Anti roll bar linkage has slight play in ball joint on fiat panda?

My car just got its mot done %26amp; got an advisory saying anti roll bar linkage has slight play in ball joint. Is this a easy fix that I can do myself at home? What parts would I need to fix it?|||A new anti roll bar drop link to be fitted. A DIY job for some people.


Jack up car and support on an axle stand


Remove road wheel


Remove 2 nuts to remove drop link


Replace drop link and tighten nuts to the proper torque/tightness


Refit wheel


Drop off the stand with a jack





Main problems on some cars are -


1 getting a tool onto some of the nuts as it can be difficult around other stuff there and it has to be correct as...


2. the nuts can be a pig to get off sometimes





If you can't tackle it a decent garage should only charge 30 mins labour

What are anti roll bar links and brushes?

Hi all,





Brought my car for NCT today (National Car Test Ireland) and it failed on "worn anti roll bar links and brushes." What are these and is it expensive to get them replaced?





Thanks!|||It is pretty simple on most cars so low labour cost, and the bushes (usually rubber) are typically only a few pounds/euros.





Typically:


1) Undo a nut on the end of the link where it attaches to the lower arm, and remove nut, washer and one bush.


2) Do the same on the opposite side of the car.


3) Raise link out of lower arm and remove other bush.


4) Do the same on the opposite side of the car.


5) Remove the links from the anti-roll bar, again probably a nut, washer, and two bushes each side.





Reassembly is the reverse, often specific torque loads to get the correct compression of the rubber bushes.





If you advise what make and model, you might get some more specific advice from someone who knows the details.





If this is all it failed on, it's pretty good news.|||Common fault. The anti-roll bar does what is says - stops the car swaying too much when you corner. The bushes link the bar to the body.





Not a big job 120 - 150 euro. A place like Kwik-Fit might be able to do it (Ireland ?). Phone in advance and ask for a quote. This is usually about 10% less than you would pay if you just drove in.|||just type into search box





sway bar or anti roll bar can read what they are and do you can type how to replace sway bar brushing really not a hard job can buy at any parts store under 100 bucks might take a hour|||is it a stabilizer bar (sway bar link) and bushing??





http://auto.howstuffworks.com/question43鈥?/a>





the price depends on what year make and model of your car|||um i think u mean bushings not brushes.......and they are also called sway bar link kits or sway bar link ends......as for price call ur local parts store and ask....installation shudnt b that bad either...good luck