Help, my baby rolls all around in cot!?

My baby is 4 months old and now in cot however keeps rolling backwards and forwards and hitting head, getting feet stuck in bars and waking all the time, ive seen you can buy safe t sleep but don't like the look of them, also there is anti roll pillow but not deemed safe in uk, also cot bumpers are not advised till 1. however i know you can buy something to make cot smaller, which is also used when baby sleeps in mum/dads bed . Does any one know what they are called. or does anyone know how i can minimise the head bashing and legs stuck?? thanks|||look at this


http://www.johnstonprams.co.uk/item1215.鈥?/a>|||you can use a cot bumper up to the age of one, well i did and just tucked it in under the matress and as for getting feet stuck try and get a sleeping bag.





or you could get this





http://www.mothercare.com/Safababy-sleep鈥?/a>





hope this helps you and i would defently use a bumper just tuck it in





xxx|||We had a similar issue - we use breathable baby bumpers. They are mesh, keep the little hands %26amp; feet in the crib . . . but are completely breathable so the baby cannot suffocate if s/he pushes their face against it.





http://www.onestepahead.com/catalog/prod鈥?/a>|||ok, cot bumpers can be used up the age of 6 months but must be removed when baby starts sitting up.i know youre worried, but seriously, there probably isnt anything you can do stop your baby rolling round the cot - thats what they do!bubs will learn soon enough - relax!|||My baby did the same when she was that age..and i was worried sick...kept checking her every few minutes. But then I started to sleep my baby in a sleeping bag...and that helped loads. after that she slept a lot better and because her legs were contained within the sleeping bag...she didnt get as stuck or move as much. Why not try sleeping ur baby in a sleeping bag too.|||Why don't you get a breathable bumper? It's a bumper that protects them from the bars but it has little holes in it so they can't suffocate. It comes in different colors, doesn't look bad, and I couldn't live without mine!|||Like others said, get a breathable bumper bad. That would help getting arms and legs from getting stuck.





Please don't use anything else that keeps them in a smaller section of the crib or anything soft/fluffy.|||http://www.toysrus.com/product/index.jsp鈥?/a>


^^Something like that may help. It's like a bumper but a mesh material so your baby will still get air circulation.|||Mesh bumpers helped with this issue a lot for us:


http://www.toysrus.com/product/index.jsp鈥?/a>|||You could try a travel bed w/mesh sides. This way baby's head, feet, etc. would only push against very soft mesh sides.|||around the WAS remodel|||Try velcro pyjamas.

Cot safety for a moving baby??

My 7 week old daughter moves around a lot in her cot. She does not roll yet but somehow manages to move from a vertical position to a completely horizontal position in her cot. So in doing that she always ends up right against the bottom end of her cot and quite often hits her head on the bars or end of the cot.





Are there any good products or ideas that may make the cot a bit softer. I don't want to use a bumper for SIDS reasons.





I have tried putting an anti roll thing on either side of her but she just moves that with her.|||My son would rotate in his crib as well. There isn't really much you can do to stop her though. Chances are being up against the bars doesn't bother her. One option is to just let her be.





Of course, you wouldn't ask this if you were comfortable with that. Another option could be to get a mesh type bumper for the crib. They allow airflow yet protect as well. http://www.inventiveparent.com/cgi-bin/s鈥?/a>


It sounds like she is just an active baby. Good luck with what ever you decide.

What is the anti roll bar in a car for?

what it says.


car body rolls when cornering.


this prevents it from rolling/ leaning so much.|||It prevents the car from leaning to the side in a corner.|||To stop excessive roll when you are cornering.|||It improves handling and reduces body roll for better tire control.|||Good - Stops the car from leaning around corners. Keeps the car flatter.





Bad - To stiff and the front/rear tires can loose traction all of a sudden while cornering hard....unless you know to expect it this can be very bad for a average boring inexperienced driver.|||it helps prevent the vehicle from collapsing under its own weight during a rollover accident.|||they use it in races to reduce weight in the car and to stop a car from collapsing under it's own weight when it is in a rolling accident.





safety

Is this smart? trading a newer car for an older car?

i'm thinking of trading my 08 Nissan Sentra for an 06 BMW M3 E46.they are both modified (M3 is heavily modified) but the bmw has 2k more miles on the engine than the sentra. should i keep the car i have or trade it? it's a close friend im trading with so i'll still see my sentra if i do trade. here is list of mods if interested.





Sentra-


Injen SP Series Cold Air Intake


Speed Limit Defencer


Super SQV Racing Single Valve


3 1/2 " Body Straight Tube glasspack (exhaust)


enkei LF-10 18" rims


SFR turbo kit


alcohol injector


R1 series carbon fiber hood


pulse style full bodykit





M3 E46-


Eibach lowering kit


EIbach anti-roll kit


Eibach Sway Bar Kit


AEM methanol injection kit


Magnaflow Exhaust System


MSD Ignition Amplifier


Mallory Performance Ignition Kit


CO2 Installation Kit


HKS GT Supercharger Kit


enkei GW8 17"rims


AE072-01 executive front bumper


R-1 executive Rear Bumper


GTR Bonnet with Carbon Vents


VIS Racing Euro Tech Style Side Skirts


vfiber frp fender flares


Carbon Fiber Dive Planes|||I think you need to figure out why anybody would give up the much superior BMW for a lowly Nissan. The Sentra (in any trim) is nothing more than an entry level car. The BMW M3 is one of the best high performance German engineered sport sedan in the world. All the mods on the planet can't make that Nissan half the car the M3 is.





From your perspective it would be a great move. If you can talk someone with an M3 into giving it up for your Sentra you're a lucky man.





There has to be some hidden issues with the M3. No sane person would ever consider that move.|||keep your own better the one you no than the one you dont and you no how and who and when all your mods was done and you can go back if you have a problem i recon you swap thats your freindship gone as it never works out i always go by two rules that is never sell a family member and never sell to a freind as their is always problems if you value your freindship dont swap|||ONLY IF ITS TOYOTA!!!!! ALL OTHER BREAK DOWN!!!! DODGE NISSAN CHEVROLE FORD INFINITI KIA BMW HYUNDAI ALL BREAK DOWN!!!! PLZ BUY TOYOTA ONLY!!! THANKS!!!|||It's all about what you want. Sentra and BMW aren't even in the same class. So, you're not really trading it down, you're trading up even though BMW is older. As a BMW owner, there is no other car that comes close to matching precision and handling that BMW has to offer. In your case, it all comes down to cost, how much are you willing pay to get the BMW.

What are some good performance parts for a 2008 Rabbit? (USA version)?

What are the things you can do to a 2008 rabbit 5 speed?


money is not an issue i want to know the best parts money can buy.


It has a 2.5 Liter 170HP, 177 torque.


What are some good websites that could that are for VW rabbit owners?


What are some Good tuner brands for VW and specifically 2008 rabbit?





I want to have the following performance parts for my 2008 rabbit but dont know which are the best money can buy.





I want:





intake


headers


exhaust


light weight pulley kit


light weight flywheel


spark plugs


Performance chip that can remove limiter and add some hp.


some sort of forced induction


pistons with higher compression ratio


suspension, anti roll bars etc.





also i want to take off like about 200 pounds off the car and if anybody knows how i can do to turn of the headlights at will, there always on 24/7, daytime runnings light.





thanks for the info ppl!|||Check out VWVortex 2.5l Forum.





http://forums.vwvortex.com/zeroforum?id=鈥?/a>





There are somethings that you want that you won't get. It's upsetting I know.





But what's more upsetting is I bought my Rabbit a little less than a year ago and you have close to 20HP more than me.





Depending on where you live, you can hit a good VW tuning shop up for some help, maybe even get your parts custom made if money isn't a problem.|||IT'S NOT GOING TO HAPPEN|||Umm your best bet if "money is not an issue." Then I would suggest just buying a 08' GTI. If you are looking for good tuning then I believe you will be much more satisfied with the performance upgrades to the 2.0t FSI. If you are really hell bent on doing upgrades to the Rabbit (which doesn't make much sense to me but w/e.) Then as said the VWvortex 2.5L would be your best bet as for information.|||man thats a great choice apexi makes alot of stuff like fuel injectors valve springs fuel pump even clutch masters makes a stage 1 2 3 cluthces skunk 2 makes an intake manifold dont know of a header but id check out dc sports, they also have connectin rods avaliable well hope this helps

Do I have any legal recourse on broken car?

I bought a new taxi in 2007 and have had nothing but trouble with it from day one.


The list of breakdowns is far too long to list here and most cannot believe it like I am only joking.


The list includes 5 clutches, 3 fuel pumps, 3 anti roll bars etc etc. Everyone agrees that the quality of the replacement parts are of such a poor quality that they can only last a very short period of time. Although most parts are covered by a 12 month warranty, I keep having to have several days off at a Time which is costing me hundreds of pounds a day.


Neither the supplier or the manufacturer are interested in the problem.


Is there any way that I can insist they buy the car back on the basis of it not being made man enough for the job of taxi ? ( it was supplied as a taxi for that use )|||How long was the manufacturer's warranty for? You should have taken action by now, you would have had strong rights against the seller first of all, but your case is weakened by the passage of time.





The taxi had to be supplied in a condition fit for its purpose. Citizens Advice Bureau might help.|||God it makes you sick when this happens. Have a look at the links


as this maybe able to put your in the right direction.





http://www.motorcodes.co.uk/





http://www.smmt.co.uk/consumeraffairs/ds鈥?/a>





http://www.consumerdirect.gov.uk/after_y鈥?/a>

Removing A/C from 1994 325i, cons, problems, difficulties, whats the best way?

I have a 1994 bmw 325i convertible, that has already been modified by racing dynamics, including adjustable suspension and anti-roll bars, engine bay tower struts, and racing exhaust. As far as i can tell the m50tu engine is completely stock. It handles like a dream, but i've always found it to be a little lacking in the get-up-and-go department (which really didn't bother me much till one day i tried to pass a semi on a slightly hilly road and couldn't get around it before the next hill), so i've been looking into ways to up the horsepower without sacrificing mpgs. Obviously the best way to do this is get rid of weight. Since its a convertible i never use the A/C, so i'm wondering if i can just remove it, or as is often the case with BMWs, is it not that easy? Will i no longer be able to run the defroster if i do? What can i get rid of without compromising other systems? Whats the best way to go about it? What other mods can i make to get my desired result? I should mention that the car is an auto (woe is me) and i only want as much power as the tranny can handle without shortening its life or serious modifications.|||make sure the serpentine belt will not be to long if you remove the AC

What upgrades are necessary to make a car safe or street drifting?

Lower Control arms? Tie Rods? Struts? Lowering Springs? Anti-Roll Bars? What all is necessary to make it safe to fly around turns without snapping any parts off?|||Have a read and think about it. Different cars will have differing priorities to make them work the way you want. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Drifting_%2鈥?/a>

What is the fastest car in the world?

The Fastest car in the world is the Koenigsegg CCX.It featurs a 5.0l twin supercharged Koenigsegg engine,together with many other unique features. The car is more track biased compared to the standard models, as it has stiffer springs and anti-roll bars,reset dampers and lowered chassis. It also features a fully visible carbon body a large adjustable rear wing,largerfront splitter and side strakes for increased down force and a unique forged wheel design. The interior is also reworked and features;color matched leather carpets,Edition side step plates,Edition chronograph instrument cluster , New edition only layout for the center consol control panels. The edition cars will be built in two different versions, a CCX model limited to 14 cars with 888 bhp. and a CCXR (bio flexi fuel) model limited to 6 cars with 1018 bhp. The price for the 888 bhp and a CCX is 1 330 000 Euro, and and 1 500 000 Euro for the 1018 hp CCXR (E85)petrol flex fuel) speed is 265|||the bugatti veyron. its costs $1.2 million and it has 1001 BHP!





dang.|||my bike|||The Fastest car in the world is the Koenigsegg CCX.It featurs a 5.0l twin supercharged Koenigsegg engine,together with many other unique features. The car is more track biased compared to the standard models, as it has stiffer springs and anti-roll bars,reset dampers and lowered chassis. It also features a fully visible carbon body a large adjustable rear wing,largerfront splitter and side strakes for increased down force and a unique forged wheel design. The interior is also reworked and features;color matched leather carpets,Edition side step plates,Edition chronograph instrument cluster , New edition only layout for the center consol control panels. The edition cars will be built in two different versions, a CCX model limited to 14 cars with 888 bhp. and a CCXR (bio flexi fuel) model limited to 6 cars with 1018 bhp. The price for the 888 bhp and a CCX is 1 330 000 Euro, and and 1 500 000 Euro for the 1018 hp CCXR (E85)petrol flex fuel) speed is 265|||right now its the bugatti veyron! tops out at 255 mph. the price is 1.4 million dollars. its a 16 cylinder car. it has two key to start it, one key only lets you get up to around 155 mph, the second key drops the car 2 inchs and a spoiler pops up, it gives the car an extra 800 hp i think and lets it reach 255 mph. oh yeh and you can only drive for 12 min befor you run out of gas at that speed, or 15 min and the tires will shread. in all it has around 1000 hp.|||When talking about road legal, standard autos, consider the Lotus Ford twin engine, limited edition, 254 mph doozie.|||I can't verify your claim.


My guess would be the car that gets there first would be the fastest. You must also take into consideration the driver's ability to handle the car at very high speeds.

Car Vibrates When Slowing Down?!?

Recently i have noticed that my car shudders and vibrates when i slow down..i have changed the brake pads and discs, also had the anti roll bars replaced. Also had the rear shoes and drums fully cleaned, but STILL the problem persists it vibrates and shudders when the car slows down.. can anyone help!|||My car always does this when I'm in the wrong gear for slowing down and haven't got the clutch down!!|||THE REAL ANSWER. First of what car do you have some cars are more prone to this problem then others. There is a combination of problems that are happening not just one. First of the rotors are warping from over heating and this can happen in as little as a 10 min drive at 60mph. Now the why because your brake pads are not moving back off the rotors when you release the brake pedal. This happens because the guide pin's or the Lock pin's (depends which manufacture your talking about) aren't moving freely like there supposed to on the caliper. Taking them of cleaning them and greasing them is how you fix that. the rotor should be replaced for a little better ones that can take a little more heat. I have used ATE premium one slotted and have had good results combined with a good ceramic pads. And a good bleeding of the system is also in order. This small changes are the key to preventing your rotor from warping. If you need more info please e-mail me, about the brakes or the bleeding part but I would like to know what car your talking about.|||There's a good chance that this suggestion won't help a bit. On the other hand, I done mechanic work thirteen years and it's worked for me multiple times.





Sometimes the brake lines can get a tiny tiny piece of trash in them and cause a restriction of good flow. This in turn will cause the calipers or wheel cylinders to pulsate. Do a thorough bleeding of the entire system.





If this doesn't help, take your rear drums off and put the rear of the car up on jack stands. Now, have someone push and hold the brakes while making sure the wheel cylinders are holding constant pressure. If they are not, you will see them expand and then slowly retract. If this is the case, replace them (always as a pair, don't replace just one) and do a thorough bleeding again.





Good luck to you. Brake problems can sometimes make even experienced mechanics pull their hair out.|||There might be two problems here......





The first problem is fuel exhaust intake. The worst thing that can happen is that there could be a leak in the gasoline in the fuel intake area and that can lead to a gunshot-like sound or "bang" called a "backfire"...the "bang" that you hear when you slow down your car.....in addition to the vibrating sound....I hope that "bang" is not happening to you. Deceleration backfires are common in this case. Backfires can mean serious problems so you better take it to an exhaust shop to fix it.





If you don't hear a backfire, looks like you are using the wrong gasoline and the problem is called "knocking". This is not the "banging" sound that you get from a backfire during deceleration. Be sure you are using the correct gasoline for your type of car and make.





Hope this helps.|||check your engine steady bars and mountings,if your using engine braking a loose or damaged steady bar can cause this problem. usually mounted on the engine bay bulkhead,sorry im presuming its a transverse engine.If its not and inline check engine mounts,gear box mounts also center propshaft bearing.Back to the brakes check caliper mounting and top and bottom ball joints/struts if fitted.|||That may be your bearings.... That'd be $$$$. Maybe tires need balancing or your front end is out of alignment. Those would be less expensive (maybe free). Go to where you purchased your tires. Les Schwab rotated mine for free and didn't charge for checking my alignment. They would've charged if they did have to align it though. Best of luck.|||It sounds like warped discs, this is especially true if the vibration occurs when braking. Try slowing without using the brakes and see what happens, no vibration then it is certainly the discs.|||Is it your brakes or your engine? Is it idling low? You can get the idle speed adjusted very easily at a garage if that's your problem.|||you replace the rotors? my first guess would have been warped rotors but if you replaced them along with all that other stuff i dont know where to begin really.|||When my car did this it was because the Tranny was grinding when I was moving into lower gears. I had a Auto but if you have a manual you might want to change your driving style|||Warped rotors or bad wheel bearings|||why dont you just be cheap and wait till it......... EXPLODES!|||Have your tires checked......when mine does that, it's always a tire problem. Good luck.|||does it feel like its going to stop because i got the same prob and im reckoning its the transmition|||ITS YOUR TIRES GET THEM CHECKED OUT . MAYBE JUST NEED TO BE BALANCED|||change down a gear!|||To high a gear|||check the motor mounts|||If they won't fix it,


L.E.M.O.N. Law!|||Are you not going in a to lower speed for the gear you are in?

Ford Escort steering/handling problem.?

Hello all.


If anyone can offer an accurate solution, I will be very grateful.


Ok, Ford Escort 1.6i, W reg. On acceleration, the car pulls noticeably to the right; ease off the throttle and it corrects itself, and feels (I am told) like it鈥檚 pulling to the left. My son (it鈥檚 his car) was told it would probably be worn wishbones, which he has replaced without improvement. Knowledgeable people have spoken of anti-roll bars, tracking, worn engine mountings etc. Tyre pressures are correct. Can anyone advise, please?


Thank you.|||it might be a ball joint problem or a differential problem





the clutches and springs in your locking and torsen differential are probably worn suplying more torque to the left side causing your car to veer to the right or if the right tire is losing grip under accelration and you have a locking and torsen differential( now i remember i just forgot for a second brain blank for a second) then when that right tire is losing grip it pushes the clutches and springs and engages the other gear and this multiplies torque to the other tire this can cause the veering to the right





replace your suspension components axles wishbones control arms





make sure your calipers arent frozen





get a wheel alignment done





replace tires|||depends on how it's been driven?


if ya sons a bit of a boy racer then all the above.


also watch how he pulls up to the kerb. if he mounts it all the time then it's 100% the tracking.





hope this helps anymore questions just e-mail me|||had the same problem with my escort a few years ago. discovered that it was the diff in the gearbox was away which admit was totaly my fault from driving like a boy racer. befor i found out that was the fault i had the wheel alignment set. new wishbones and track rod ends.

406 HD1 90 Died on me?

Hi there, %26amp; happy new year


I'm In desperate need of help, Im a taxi driver and i missed New Years Eve I havn't worked since Xmas. So time is short for me to get it fixed. I am the families sole provider too.





History first:


Lower end/Gearbox engine staberlise bush has gone soft, when I depress the clutch the peddle vibrates. The bush is on order.


An intermitant loud ticking noise on the cambelt side of the engine. Havn't pinpointed it yet.


Just replaced the n/s/r anti roll bar link.


I drove fine, giving over 40mpg round town %26amp; 60mpg on long runs.





The problem:


Today it was a ***** to get it into 1st %26amp; 2nd but ok on others, when stationary %26amp; the cluch on the floor the car still juddered forwards.


I pulled off a rourdabout in 3rd and went for 4th but the clutch went to the foor without pressure. I lifted the peddle with my foot and stayed in 3rd for about 1/2 a mile %26amp; pulled into a mcdonalds, just as I turned into the carpark the engine died and I coasted to a halt.





I tryed to re-start the engine but it won't start, it turns over, no engine management lights are on, the lift pump under the back seat seems to be working as I removed the fuel pipe on the o/s of the filter housing and got a steady steam of diesel out of the filter.





I took the top half of the cambelt housing off and the belt looks ok to me, I have no idea how to time this up, do you know where I can download/get hold of some decent data so I can fit a new belt/tentioner?





I even pushed what I thought was the cut off switch down a load of times, (Red cappeed thing mounted on the n/s/f inner stut mount) nothing changed.


I took off the battery for a night %26amp; charged it, hoping it will reset the ecu and thow up a code. Nothing changed.





Tryed to tow start it in 3rd, but no start. The cluch resumed normal opperation as well?





I have found the the lift pump %26amp; relay works fine, I cracked off a pipe on #1 injector and it pumped fuel for 5 seconds, so thats ok.





I measured the battery voltage it read the following





12.80v All off


11.80v 5sec warm up


12.50v After warm up


10.80v On cranking


12.50v All off rising to 12.65v.





Is the battery knackered, would this be the cause of it all?


The starter motor cranks as its always done for the past 2 years (Fast) Is there enough power to turn the engine over but not enough for the injection system?





MY assumption to the problem:


Diesels don't need electricity to run, but to stop the fuel must be stopped, so am I right in thinking that some thing electrical is stopping the fuel getting thru?


What of the noise in the engine bay, could it be a pump dieing/ Bottom pully (So I've read)? Could the pump die suddenly?


Could the engine have shifted and cut into a wire. Why did I loose pressure on the clutch only to regain it again? Are these Items related?


If the belt had jumped a tooth either way, wouldnt I have noticed some sort of ruff running? It was as smooth as normal, a total suprise that the engine cut out.





Last year when I jet washed the engine bay I killed the EGR valve thing which was disconected by Colchester Diesels, he also said that the Air Temp Sender was reading 10% down but he assured me that it was ok.





I am at a loss, I am capable of doing any job myself as I used to own a French garage till I got divorced. I need this car running asap, so if anyone has an idea I'm willing to give it a go.





What I realy need is technical info like Ohms %26amp; Volts Data Stuff thats in the dealers/Bosch workshop manual. Has anyone got any that they can let me read or can point me to web pages? Ive been searching the web for 3 days and found some stuff but its not enough.





Its that time of the year when everyone is fully booked or closed and I have no one but myself to sort this out.


So again any help/info as to how I fault find this or even a web page or two would be the best Christmas pressie I get this year.


Thanks to all of you and I hope the new year brings good fortune to you all.





I look forward to your responces.


Yours


Josh.|||HDis unfortunately need electricity to run, because they have electric fuel pumps!





there is no way of fixing these things with the multimeter, they are too complex, you need to take it for a fault scan, even although there is no management light on!





the fuel pumps in these things aren't great, and I hope it's not broken because that's an expensive fix and needs to be done at a garage.





if it had jumped a tooth, it wouldn't just cut out.





Maybe the answer you're after is in the Haynes manual! I know there are versions for the 406 and should have faults and remedies described in detail for you. maybe even with values.








I also get the feeling this question is a re-post, since it's only October!|||mines a 1/9TD but try asking on 406oc.co.uk qwners club site , some knowledable guys on there , even a few how-to guides

Car squeaking??

hi, i have just noticed a squeaking/creaking noise coming from the front of my car it only happns when i am stopping the car or turning slowly or pushing down on the front of the car does it too!!! my neighbour said that its likely that the anti roll bar just needs some grease, could this be the cause and if so how do i do it?? plz help as i am trying to sell my car also and dont want no squeaking for any test drives!! Thank you|||this could be a bad shock. or a broken spring retainer.. jack the car up or roll on some rino ramps.. push down on the side where the squeak is coming from. then you can locate the companent that is causing the noise.. there are so many possibilities. and you have to locate the source ok|||more info..what car?what year? miles?...1 bad struts...2 bad balljoints.3..brake or wheel bearing

Whats causing humming noise in front of my car?

There is an intermittent humming noise in avensis, more so when turning. I have a problem and cant seem to get to the bottom of it, there is a slight humming noise when drive, but it sounds louder when you turn, it sounds like something is rubbing or there is a buldge in the tyre but theres not.


Just to mention a few things that have been done, all new anti roll bar links and bushins, changed a hub cause thought it was a bearin, got wheels balanced and when that made no difference swapped wheels with wheels on back in case it was the tyres. Boot rubbers and drives also seem ok. ???


It doesnt seem to be affecting the way it drives. Any help is welcome as it is driving me mad to find out whats causing it in case it is the start of someting bigger!


Any ideas apart from hubs or power steering?


Just trying to gather as many ideas to try later, thanks.|||Hi


Sounds like a wheel bearing.Easiest way to check is to drive the car on a road with lots of bends and listen to the noise change when you steer.


Less noise on straight ahead position but more turning left is a right hand wheel bearing.


Less noise ahead but more turning right is a left hand bearing.


By carefully swinging the car from left to right on a NONE busy road, you can detect which bearing is failing.


Be careful, but this method does work.


Good Luck|||Nice,someone trying things first themselves,you seem to have covered most things,it's your description that intrigues me,humming,not grinding or groaning,If it were here now I'd be looking for a sympathetic vibration,something in the exhaust system or heat shields,these can "hum" in vibration with engine speed or road speed.try them,good luck.|||heres a link for a diagram of what u need:http://images.google.com/imgres?imgurl=http://www.thecinemasource.com/moviesdb/images/Kevin_Bacon%2520-%25201%2520-%2520Loverboy.jpg%26amp;imgrefurl=http://www.thecinemasource.com/celebrity/interviews/Kevin-Bacon-Bringing-Home-the-Bacon-interview-301-500.html%26amp;usg=__aC5SY9v5YiLHQh4dCuQ_Sb9rlEQ=%26amp;h=368%26amp;w=300%26amp;sz=65%26amp;hl=en%26amp;start=1%26amp;tbnid=E-VFzqhjpNNbmM:%26amp;tbnh=122%26amp;tbnw=99%26amp;prev=/images%3Fq%3Dkevin%2Bbacon%2Bsad%26gbv%3D2%26hl%3Den%26sa%3DG|||have you checked the power steering pump or the gearbox seals at the end of the driveshafts there the U shaped rubber sels that sit around the drive shafts where they meet the gear box.


also the power steering pump can sometimes buzz if the bearings are dry|||It sounds lke it could be the powered steering rack or the powered steering pump bearings or it could be the bearing in the alternator|||I see you mentioned Boot Rubbers which makes me think FWD or AWD. Have the output shaft bearings in the transmission checked.|||my Avensis has had 2 power steering pumps, due to this problem. The symptoms were at first a sort of whirring noise, which then becomes a rubbing droning noise. It did not affect the feel of the steering, at all, but was very annoying.


If you do decide to change the pump, it is not cheap. I did mine myself, as I was a mechanic for 15 years and I paid 拢300 for each pump! Mine is a non VVTI version (1999) so depending on your car, it may not be relevant?


My reason for spending this sort of silly money, were down to the simple fact, that the car is worth the money, due to overall greatness!

Nissan 100NX 1992 - Failed MOT?

Heloo, Looking for help!!!!





MOT fail because of the following on a nissin 100NX


001 Nearside Windscreen washer provides insufficient washer liquid


002 Front registration plate insecure


003 Offside front anti roll bar linkage has excessive play in a ball joint.


004 Offside front shock absorber has a serious fluid leak


005 Exhaust emission carbon/Hydrocarbon %26amp; Lambda outside limits.





Please help, dono where to look and dont want my baby to die :(|||Clean out washer jets and pipework


Refix numberplate


Replace OS anti roll bar drop link


Replace BOTH front shocks not just one as that is dangerous


Engine - depends why the emmisions are high -may need aservice - sounds like a while since the baby was cared for properly - could be terminal engine wear at that age.|||Timbo is pretty much right, on the emissions front though it is worth giving it a full service and sticking a load of redex type fuel system cleaner through the system, especially if you don't do much long distance higher speed journeys. (this worked on a friends old rover 214)Try this BEFORE spending money on the other things in case your engine is dead. If the engine is done for, a second hand engine from a breaker might be the answer but need to seriously consider cost as will not get money back if you sell the car later.

M62 v8 540i engine swap into an E46 coupe?

I am trying to do research into what modifications need done in the engine bay of an E46 coupe to accomodate the 4.6 v8 from a 540i. My main concerns are the location of the sump, and steering column. Does anyone have any experience or knowledge on what needs modified? does the steering column need modified? will the steering rack obstruct the sump? does the manual gearbox fit in the floorpan? I expect custom manifolds will be needed anyway but I want to know about any unforseen issues that I have not accounted for. I am aware of anti roll bar and ecu, springs and brakes etc. My problem is specifically the physical fitment of the engine into the e46 coupe.|||There will be a ton of mods, and fabrication/work time alone will run you near $8000 to do it right. Now toss in the cost of the engine, and all engine components, custom drive shaft, etc... You really are better of buying something with the V8, or supercharging your I6 (much cheaper).





And no, the CSL did not come with a V8. It had the 3.2L I6 with 350 bhp.|||I would recommend the site unofficialbmw.com for this question. They have many people there that do this regularly.





I have seen many people put awesome E46 engines into an E30, but they will know about your question as well.





BMW got a V8 in there for the CSL (pretty sure) as well as new E90 3-series, so it should work somehow.

My car failed MOT- should i get it welded?

It failed on offside front anti-roll bar linkage had excessive play in a ball joint. Offside rear wheel bearing has excessive play. Offside outer rear (sill) seat belt anchorage prescribed area is excessively corroded. Nearside outer rear (sill) seat belt anchorage prescribed area is excessively corroded. Nearside inner rear (sill) suspension component mounting prescibed area is excessively corroded. Offside inner rear (sill) suspension component mounting prescibed area is excessively corroded. Nearside rear (chassis leg) suspension component mounting prescibed area is excessively corroded. Two holes in exhaust. Alot of welding needs done. Was quoted about 拢300. My car is 1998 ford fiesta, the engine is fine, is its worth fixing?|||You're going to spend 拢300 on a rotten car, which will require welding within 12 months. These cars, once they start to rust, never stop. In reality, this kind of work where I am employed, would cost about 拢600! The sills particularly, rust like mad, and these are the seatbelt and suspension mounting areas you speak of. The car is worth no more than about 拢350 with a year's MOT on it, and then it needs taxing, insuring, and fuelling, not to mention tyres and servicing. Personally I would cut my losses, and sell the car without MOT, or indeed "weigh it in" at a scrapyard (not a vehicle dismantlers though, a proper metal recyclers, that has a weighbridge) You could net over 拢100 even for a car the size of a Fiesta. Then, spend your money on something like a similarly aged Focus or Golf. The insurance will be similar, as they are better built and they have similar insurance groups. You will end up in a slightly larger and safer car, and move up a little! (I Like old cars, mine were built in 1961 Land Rover, 1970 Land Rover, 1983 Land Rover, 1989 Ford Sierra, and 2006 Ford Focus.)|||I was in almost exact situation recently , S reg(98) car, almost 拢300 for MOT work but perfect engine, though i have t say like, didnt need as much doing as yours. I loved the car but decided to struggle for a month or 2 without a car 'cos it just wasnt worth it. Even if you spend 拢300 on another car with a decent MOT on it your laughing because like already mentioned, your fiesta's probably gonna cost you more next year.|||This sounds awfully cheap for the amount of work that needs to be done. However, if you genuinely get it done for that price and it will then pass its probably worth it - you will get another year out of the car, which is less than a years depreciation on a newer vehicle, never mind the interest on a loan as well. But next year it will probably fail on corrosion as well, since the tin-worm does seem to have got a hold. On balance I would fix it and sell on -|||Well, you cannot drive it unless it passes its MOT, so if you do not get it fixed you need to get rid of the car.





拢300 doesn't sound too bad. It's up to you. 1998 is a bit old for a car (which is ridiculous, I know), so does it need much other work doing to it? The more it needs, the less it is worth keeping. If it is just the welding that needs doing, then that's a lot cheaper than buying a whole new car.|||That seems cheap for that much metal work. I always work on what else could I buy that is going to be better than what I've got. If you like the car, spend the money and keep it, if you are sick of it, get something else but it will cost a lot more than $300( sorry no pound sign on my keyboard) I don't think 1998 is an old vehicle, in fact I just upgraded from a 1978 to a 1998.|||Sounds like it is high mileage and had a lot of winter use. The repair at 拢300 is only the start, if indeed they do complete the repair for that cost. They may well start and say there was more corrosion than expected and the bill is 拢700. Next year will see big repairs and the following years. Time to buy another car with less miles.|||Yup, 拢300 is MEGA cheap for that amount of welding, never mind the suspension work and exhaust.





I smell a rat, to be honest, something really doesn't add up here, the work you describe even at a small cheap garage sounds like 拢6-800 all day long.|||i have to say that to me that sounds suspiciously cheap for that amount of work, really suspiciously cheap.|||Time to scrap it.

MOT failed... Price to repair?

1998 Hyundai Lantra 2.0 failed MOT with the following:





801 Suspension: Anti-roll bar linkage defective - Nearside rear. Offside rear


809 Suspension: Shock absorber defective - Offside rear


906 Brake pipe corroded/pitted - Nearside rear. Offside rear


906 Brake pipe not sufficiently clean - Offside front


906 Brake pipe not sufficiently clean - Middle, Rear





How much approximately to fix?|||Did you not get a quote from the MOT garage?


Impossible to say without seeing the car but minimum 拢3-400 including labour %26amp; VAT.|||do it yourself anti-roll bar rubber bush x2 拢6.40 ------------1 HOUR TO FIT


SHOCK ABSORBER X1 拢35.00------------1 HOUR TO FIT


BRAKE PIPES HAVE THEM MADE UP 拢30.00-------------2 HOURS TO FIT


WIPE DOWN AND CLEAN


WITH GUNK REST OF PIPES-----------------------------------鈥?MIN'S





AFTERNOONS WORK SAVE YOURSELF 拢400 +


NONE OF THESE ARE HARD JOBS TO DO|||Get several quotes from various garages. If they've any sense they'll want to see the car first.|||i own a garage ..without seeing the vehicle 拢500

V reg vectra 2.5 gsi V6, oil leak at front crankseal+oil pump area?

i had my vectra in at vauxhall yesterday to get a new key fob (拢32 part+拢40 labour may i add),they then decided to do a vehicle inpection which they supposenly do to every motor,anyway they came back to me and hour later with th following faults





REAR BRAKE PADS LOW+DISC CORRODED


O/S HANDBRAKE SPRING MISSING+N/S SPRING STRETCHED


POWER STEERING PIPE CORRODED AND LEAKING AT SUBFRAME*****


HEATSHIELD AT D/PIPE AND CENTRE EXHAUST LOOSE


P/S RACK ROUGH


BOTH REAR SWING ARM BUSHES SPLIT AND PLAY AT ALL4 BUSHES


N/S OUTER CV BOOT LEAKING


BAD OLI LEAK AT FRONT CRANKSEAL AND OLI PUMP AREA******


OIL LEAK AT GEARBOX AND POSSIBLE REAR CRANKSHAFT OIL SEAL


O/S TRACK ROD END BOOT SPLIT


PLAY AT N/S/R ANTI ROLL BAR BUSH





first of all the car passed its mot last week,would any of these faults not have been an mot failure?


then after vauxhall kindly let me know the faults they then hit me with the 拢800 labour fee without any parts,i was in utter shock,as i have put ***** these are the faults that need fixed first,does anyone know roughly how much it would cost to fix?there is a small puddle each day of oil on the ground under engine area but all the levels are all still maximum,iv had the car round several garages but no one seems to be interested and im sure as hell not paying vauxhalls labours charges!any feedback welcome,cheers|||its gonna cost which ever way you do it, sell it and get another. your car has had its day

Any idea whats causing humming noise in front of my car?

There is an intermittent humming noise in avensis, more so when turning. I have a problem and cant seem to get to the bottom of it, there is a slight humming noise when drive, but it sounds louder when you turn, it sounds like something is rubbing or there is a buldge in the tyre but theres not.


Just to mention a few things that have been done, all new anti roll bar links and bushins, changed a hub cause thought it was a bearin, got wheels balanced and when that made no difference swapped wheels with wheels on back in case it was the tyres. Boot rubbers and drives also seem ok. ???


It doesnt seem to be affecting the way it drives. Any help is welcome as it is driving me mad to find out whats causing it in case it is the start of someting bigger!|||There are four hubs in the car,hard to pinpoint which unless the noise is very loud.Possibly the hub replaced is not the culprit?|||my rack and pinion went bad and my power steering failed , so i had that replaced now my car humms , especially when turning , my mechanic said some power steering pumps hum more than others and he would not change it. he said it could last 10 years humming like it is.|||If it's humming.. then it probably forgot the words.... he,he,he...





Seriously.. I go along with the power steering pump suggestion|||check your power steering fluid condition. it would tell you the condition of your pump.|||it sounds like a wheel bearing it could be front or rear have all 4 looked at|||Did you check both hub bearings? That's what my car did when the hub bearing was shot.|||it may be something as simple as the type of tread on your tires|||Occam's Razor.....Get a can of belt dressing and spray all your belts while the engine is running. If it happens when you are turning then that means that something is under extra stress then like your power steering. There are several parts to the power steering that consists of rods pistons, pumps and belts as well as hoses and fittings. me. I'd look there first then use the process of elimination...Sorry this one is going to be a P I T A....Pain In The ....





By the way...have you checked for road debris? I have gotten branches and limbs caught and hidden in my wheel wells and other parts and they drove me crazy with noise that I just could not place.





New thought....my Avalon makes a "rubbing noise" and it could be that your front brake rotors are warped a bit and as they turn they "rub a bit' on your brake pads. I do not mean your pads are bad but that the rotors might be a bit warped and they do make a rubbing type noise.

Vauxal astra LS 1.7TD not starting?

ive taken my car to a new garage for MOT, it failed on


anti-roll bar linkage has excessive play in a ball joint


near side and offside front steering arm has relative movement at its fixing


offside rear parking brake recording little or no effect


parking brake efficiency below requirment





it return to the garage and he fixed all of the failed problems, then went to turn the engine on and it wouldnt start, hes taken it apart and it seems to be the desial pump. my car has 151573 miles and is a 2000 plate. he said its not worth fixing and needs scarping. i still have to pay for all the parts hes done, i think its a bit of a coninsidence how it worked perfectly fine driving to the gargage but since hes fixes the failed parts it wont start at all. i need advice from a mechanical, maybe someone who specailisers in vauxalls. how much would it cost? or is not worth it.( sorry about my spelling).











diseanal pump|||it is a bit odd that it was fine when it went in now its gone but any way u can pick 1 up at a breakers for around 拢25 and put it in yourself if ur able not an hard job|||Either have him put a new pump in or have it towed to another shop to make sure he is not ripping you off.Pumps go bad but with all the money you just spent you may as well have the injector pump put in.

What is wrong with my Vauxhall Corsa? (52 Reg)?

It makes a low knocking sound and sort of rumbling sound too when I go around roundabouts or harsh turns. I have had my loose anti-roll bar links fixed so what else could it be, any rough ideas as I have a lot of cowboy garages near me and would rather be armed with a rough idea as to what it could be. Also when the car slows down the rumbling sound is heard and a deep engine sound can be heard eg a similar sound to ambulances when they are at a stop eg that deep rmm, rmm, rmm sound that they make.


Thankyou for any ideas.


|||if you get the rumbling and knocking when you rev the engine at stand still- the rumbling will be main crank bearings and the knocking is a symptom of big end bearing failure.





When you have ruled out engine problem - then the chances are it a worn wheel bearing or constant velocity joint- if you are in uk and want it confirmed take it for a pree mot check they should pick out the problem because its part of the test- will cost a bit but far cheaper than a cowboy garage|||To all who said about a cv joint you were correct, I have had this fixed, and this problem has now been resolved so thankyou x

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|||I would suggest if it's going round corners, it may be a wheel bearing, but if it does it at a standstill, unless the exhaust is blowing, then it's a symptom of engine main bearing failure - very expensive %26amp; means a rebuilt or replacement engine.|||Whats wrong with your vauxhall corsa? Whats right with them?|||Hi pos a cv joint, what happens the gaiter comes off and the greese gets lost. common on corsas, also cauld be a ball joint fault..


get a mechanic to take a look

Control arm kit question?

Hi





Has anyone ever sourced or even fitted a control arm kit on a 2.5 tdi 163bhp avant from 2003?





Have seen a few kits which supply all the control arms, anti roll bar links , new uprated bolts etc for around the 锟?40 mark.





But when i try to order, it turns out they dont do my model, very frustrating as i'm looking forward to tightening up the suspension.





The kit in question was of ebay (German company), but does anyone know of a suitable source of parts that they could recommend.|||Hi could you re ask the question stating the make and model of the car please as we are not mind readers. we need to even have a guess on what car you are talking about.


TDi could be just about anything from a land rover to a volks wagen.

Why would my car make a thud/knock noise when i turn right and left ?

it sounds like something popping out a socket or something ? i have jacked it up and looked underneath but cant see any obvious signs why ?


The steering also pulls to the left after popping with a left turn !!! then it can pull to the right after it popping with a right turn ? sounds daft i know but i have been driving it for 2-3 weeks like this as the


shocks feel ok springs dont look broken and both anti roll bar links were changed about 2 weeks ago.


Could it be the steering column or drive shaft or cv joint ????





Thanks in advance to all that reply|||I would say CV joint. Usually its a clicking sound not a pop.|||since ou had the roll bar changed about the time the noise started, I would suspect a loose connection on the Roll Bar.





Have that checked out.|||sounds like a cv joint to me. jack it up and see if you can shake the joint.|||You probably need new axles. And you'd need to get your car aligned.|||could be a tie rod loose fitting.|||U- Joint (or about $150.00's)|||cv joint or tie rod end probs

Mot test . my car failed but i believe the garage is conning me?

my car failed its mot , gargage says 10 things and said ohh bmw prices etc etc , and offered to fix them costing 拢1000 plus ... thing is 6 things they said were faulty last year and they then fixed them , when i asked they said ohh wear and tear


i believe the saythings that cannot be seen





anti roll bar unsecure


exhaust majoe leak of gasses


suspension excessive play in ball joint


brake pipes





these wer eon last years list also





my question





if i take to another garage for mOT , can they see what other garage has put ?





thanks|||Take it somewhere else, it is as simple as that.





BUT are you sure the list wasn't just advisories last year as if so they would not have been fixed.|||Hi





First of all, unless they use the MOT info website, then they cannot see what it has been failed on, but they need document references that only you can give them before they can do that.





If they are failing it on things they supposedly repaired last year then they either didn't repair them or didn't repair them properly, either way, they are taking you for a ride, and you need to stop using them.





Take your car elsewhere, tell them what you have told us, and tell them that you are looking for someone honest and reliable to look after your car.





Very best regards





Geordie|||Read your partial list of why the car failed the test. If you don't have the mechanical ability to check the failure list yourself take the car to a trusted private mechanic or a BMW dealer. If you have the money to buy one of these cars, repair parts and services are expensive also.





If you knew a ball joint, anti-roll bar and brake pipe was rusted leaking or loose from last years inspection, don't you feel somewhat embarrassed that you didn't repair things that will put you into a tree, wall, house or another car?|||You need to take it to a place that just does mot's and doesn't do repairs as well, that way there is no incentive fr them to try and generate business by falling your car unnecessarily. If you take it else where and it doesn't fail on those things them report the original garage to the authorities|||These do sound like failure items, and it's perfectly possible that they may be telling the truth.





Thousands of pounds sounds expensive to put that lot right though.





Have a look here: http://www.ukmot.com/MOT%20test/Council%20MOT%20Test%20Centers.asp





If you don't trust your MOT center, take it to one of those council-run ones in the link above - they are 100% above-board and very helpful, and won't try and con you!|||take it for a second opinion and while you are there ask them to show you where the ball joints are in the suspension, because the last time i was under a car ball joints were part of the steering swivel mechanism and nothing to do with suspension tell them you want a second opinion|||If you are not happy about the MOT test result, there is an appeal procedure. Details are on the fail certificate. If you intend to appeal don't get the car fixed first. The appeal inspector will need to see the car in the same condition it was in at its MOT test.|||to be honest, i dont trust garages either.. the ones that say i have problems and stuff, i just try to avoid going to them in the future. just go to another garage.. see what they say, and then go from there. and also the faults mentioned might just be advisory.|||Just take it elsewhere for another MOT. They willsee it has had one recently but unless you tell them, which you won't, they will only know by looking whether it has been fixed.|||No the other garage cannot see the other garage failed sheet .|||sounds abit to much to me, they seen you coming! lol take it to another garage as there not going to no you have taken it to another garage|||You went to a MAIN dealer for an MoT? Are you crazy?


Go to place that does MoT's but does do repairs.|||These all look like failure items to me, but you're quite free to take the car to another garage and pay for another MOT test, and yes, they'll see what's already in the system for that car.





It does sound from your tone that you've got the all too common attitude that MOT tests are to be got through as cheaply as possible and anything that the MOT man says is wrong with the car is a con. This is almost never the case, MOT inspectors are highly trained and regularly inspected themselves to see that they're being fair. Remember that it's their job to ensure that the cars on our roads meet a certain minimum standard of safety, if that didn't happen and your anti roll bar or suspension broke while you were driving it could have lethal consequences.





I don't care if you die, but I'd rather not have an out of control BMW veering towards me as I turn a bend. Get it fixed.|||One i am guessing you bought the car second hand?


If i my guess is right you have just discovered why the owner sold it to you1


secondly you are more likely to be coned by the small garage round the corner in the back street than a much maligned Kwik fit work shop.


reason they get paid if your car passes or not!


and as for the fee a small mot plus repair certainly doesn't.


I have read such a load of tripe and utter libel against the kwik fit workshops and other similar chains.


And yes for once the main dealership will be very very expensive for repairs and M.O.T.'s





If the items were on a list two years running then its a to do list .


Depending on the age of the car in question they sound if its a few years old about right despite what the air chair mechanics here claim.


So i my opinuion you sound like the average motorist complaining about the normal repeat normal cost of maintaining a car1


How ever if you want an independent check made you can go to the RAC OR AA But they will charge you1


OR GO TO TRADING STANDARDS WHO ARE BASED IN YOUR LOCAL COUNCIL AND ASK THEM THEY ARE FREE!





Your list sounds SPOT ON SO I THINK YOU ARE JUST MOANING JUST LIKE WE ALL DO WHEN IT COMES TO PAYING THE BILL FOR OUR PLEASURE!|||It would have been better if you had listed all 10 things ~ i say this because you mention them saying "oh BMW prices". Both brake pipes and ball joint are available at very reasonable prices from after market suppliers The exhaust leaks, depends where and certainly a genuine BMW exhaust (which would probably last far longer than you will keep the car) is very expensive but again is available for far less money from after market suppliers.





There seems to be this widespread belief that if a car fails the mot the garage is conning them. Now there certainly is a wide variation in the hourly labour charge, a small local garage has lower over heads than a big flash premises' but the lower labour charge does not mean that the mechanics are not as skilled. My youngest son is dual qualified, both as a vehicle body repair technician and as a mechanic and he also holds an mot testers certificate. He has worked in one dealership where the labour rate was 60 quid an hour and another where it was just 35 quid an hour. Same bloke doing the same job though ! As far as the mot test it's self is concerned, there are obviously the odd bad apples but the vast majority of mot testers are scroupulously fair. For the garage there is quite a large cash investment involved in becoming an mot test station and few garages will risk that investment by failing cars on things that don't warrant it. A garage's bread and butter is provided by their repeat customer base. The 'jam' is the passing trade. Do a good job for a customer and they will recommend you to a few of their close friends. Rip them off and they will scream blue murder to every one they know! There are some items in the test that can be subjective and open to individual interpretation. Wear in a ball joint is one. There will be a stage in its wear when it is border line whether it passes or fails. In a borderline case it is actually in your interest for them to fail it ! You earn money every week, you lose your life just once! My son and all the testers he knows are always aware that the car they are testing up on the ramp may have a young mum and a couple of kids in it later that day so on a subjective safety issue they will come down on the 'play safe' side.|||Take it to any local MOT testing station and ask them to jack it up and look - show them the MOT and tell them you think the garage are trying to con you - Garages want your business - so if they play fair, you are likely to use them again.



If you lived anywhere near Peterborough, I would tell you to take it to my friends garage - they would check it over for you for free and give you guidance.



With that fail list you would or should have noticed a clonk or two from the Anti roll bar - a load of hissing or exhaust noise being louder, a definite clonk with the suspension play and the brake pipes one is a common CON - if pipes show any signs of corrosion (even minimal) they try it on to get you replace them.



To be honest, this almost sounds like a Kwik Fit job (or similar)



Oh! Yeah - and if it passes - report the garage to the MOT people as they are filing false reports...|||It is relatively rare for an MOT test station to totally con people these days. If complaints are made they risk losing their MOT status and thus the business that comes in from fixing the faults. By all means get a second opinion. Some of the failure points may be debatable, but you have 10 so don't hold out too much hope. I think you need to change your garage, if they were supposed to fix some of these things last year they should have mostly stayed fixed, unless you requested the cheapest fix possible which may not have lasted. Be aware that if you have an old BMW then its never going to be cheap to keep it on the road.

MOT Fail Nissan 100NX - HOw much to fix and what is needed?

Heloo, Looking for help!!!!





MOT fail because of the following on a nissin 100NX


001 Nearside Windscreen washer provides insufficient washer liquid


002 Front registration plate insecure


003 Offside front anti roll bar linkage has excessive play in a ball joint.


004 Offside front shock absorber has a serious fluid leak


005 Exhaust emission carbon/Hydrocarbon %26amp; Lambda outside limits.





Please help, dono where to look and dont want my baby to die :(|||001: easy job, probably a blocked pipe or jet. Take pipe off from the washer bottle end and blow through it and stick something small (such as a strand from a wire brush) into the jet iteself. *FREE*





002: New screws required or double sided adhesive tape? *FREE*





003: Probably about 拢75 all in.





004: 'Phone round and a price a pair up. Have no idea on your car but probably about 拢100 for two fitted (you should replace in pairs).





005: Change oil, oil filter, air filter and spark plugs. Fill tank with fresh petrol and Redex (or similar). Give it one almight good thrashing by which I mean hammering it in every gear and getting the engine as warm as possible, then re-take for emissions. You won't believe the power a good service and thrashing can do for emissions.

Car Steering Problem, Help Please.?

When driving if i put my foot down to speed up a bit the steering seems to slide to one side but does not pull and when i take my foot of the gas it corrects its self again, I've changed both lower arm bushings each side, changed both bull joints and the front breaks but still the same, i've had the tracking (alignment) checked and its only 4ml out total.. i was told the alignment would not cause that problem.


Checked CV Joins and looks ok, no clicking and the boots have no splits etc.





what else could this be? could it be the anti roll bar links?


the car is a vw golf. any help will be great. thanks.|||i would suspect the power stereeng rack see if this info will help u some: http://images.google.com/imgres?imgurl=h鈥?/a>|||find a lift. You need to see what's happening underneath while steering. Get a grade A mechanic to let you see what they see not a mechanic who keeps you in the dark. Most mechanics refuse to let a customer see underneath because it is on a lift in a work area that forbids customers from occupancy.

Renault Clio '02 front knocking noise?

Hey, I wonder if any of you could help me. As you may know I have a Renault Clio 2002 1.2 dynamic. Recently i've had a slight knocking noise at the front of my car when going over small bumps but it these last few weeks its got louder and seems to be most of the time. I took it to a local garage and they had a look. They said and showed me that one of the front swing-arms or anti-roll bar had snapped and kept hitting the car every time i went over a bump..so happy a problem had been found, got it fixed and went on my way. It sorted the problem for a while but now the noise is back...exactly the same as it was before. Has anyone had the same problem or a similar problem so I can at least try and identify what is going on.


Thanks in advance|||Take it back to the local garage and have them fix it right this time.


Could be another problem that causes the swing arm to fail.|||Just to say that I took it back to the garage, they looked and couldn't find anything. Took it to another garage that are alot better and they said that nothing seems to be loose and everything is fine. Im going to leave it for a bit. seems to have dulled down a bit too

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Am i being ripped off...car mot ?

just had my car put through an mot, it failed! yet again.


im getting worried now that im being ripped off, as ive spent a lot of money on it, it failed on...


one side light not working, 2 tyres not enough tread


7 brake pipes corroded and the anti-roll bar linkage insecure


its a vauxhall astra, 1998


and ive been quoted 拢400





hopefully there are some mechanics on tonight :)|||I would not argue with any of that but in all my years as an MOT inspector I have never come across 7 brake pipes on the same car that need replacing since the last MOT.


I would seriously get another opinion from a reputable MOT station and if they don't agree on the condition of the pipes then report it to VOSA.|||Its 10 years old!





What do you expect. Its a money trap.





Time to trade it in and trade up to one 3 years old.











Its easy to check your lights - you should do this and not leave it to the MOT man. Same goes for tyres - its illegal (3 points per tyre) for tyres less than 1.6mm tread across the central 3/4 of the tyre - easy to check - gauges are cheap, even free. Change tyres BEFORE they reach 1.6mm - say 2mm to avoid fines and points and bills at MOT time.





Ask for a breakdown of the quote (拢400) and see if you can get the tyres cheaper, fit a new lamp yourself?





As for brake pipes - if they are corroded, you need new ones.|||I am at a loss to understand what has happened with your car. You say you have spent a lot of money on the car but it has failed its mot on things which any mechanic would have spotted very easily. So where did you have the car serviced- go back to them and complain that they didn't do their job very well.|||Those are very straightforward things. Either the tyres have tread or not or the light works or not or the pipes have corrosion. Either the roll bar link is secure or not.


They are not up for discussion and any MOT place will find those the same. 拢400 sounds right but not worth spending that on it.|||been there so many times with so many cars, they are a money pit, you have to ask your self if i get all the work done will it be ok or will something else go wrong, i got rid of the bangers and updated to a 2 year old car, and it was so worth the extra cash, if you can get better try and take a mechanic with you when you buy,|||with lights not working and bald tyres- what on earth did you spend all that money on, two tyres 拢80, Bulb 拢2, brake lines 拢80, fitting 拢120, it's either been under water or in a crash by the sound of it unless you live by the sea|||Hi! Button!





You could always take the matter to VOSA. That is the government department which controls MOT testing stations.|||its time to trade it in, and get something that about 3 years old..


Been there and it not worth the stress...believe me..

I need help?

IN FORZA MOTORSPORT i have a nissan 240sx with 836 hp and 700 ft lbs of torque what can i adjust to make it drift longer make the steering more responsive and harder to spin out





In the game you can adjust the tier pressure, the anti roll bar settings, lsd settings what should iset those to, camber, castor, toe, downforxce.





Can you tell me a way to tune this to make my car drift longer steering more responsive harder to spin out??





Can you tell me how much i should push the throttle down when i am drifting??





TRHANKS I REALLY NEED THIS|||Run a Domestic ya ricer

Brake fluid cylinder leaking? Brakes cut out?

Took my T reg fiesta to a garage 3 weeks ago to just have it checked out. Needed a new drivers side gator, anti roll bar link and rubber bush. Got everything fixed and was told the car was fine and safe to drive on roads.





Whilst driving today my brakes were fine, no extra pressure needed, worked perfectly, the car stopped when I wanted it to. After a mile and perfect braking I attempted to brake to slow down. The brakes suddenly felt slack and went straight to the floor with no change in speed at all. My car did not slow down and did not stop which caused an accident.





I have now had the car towed and looked at by a professional who says the brake cylinder pump on the back right wheel of the car is leaking and needs to be replaced.





I am wondering if it is normal for this to suddenly happen or if the problem could have been spotted 3 weeks ago when the car was in the garage.





Thankfully no one was hurt, it was under 10mph and no damage - just a few scratches.|||The relative unreliability of older cars is mainly caused by lack of skilled, comprehensive servicing. is not impossible to get multiple failures on a car that age if the brake fluid has not been regularly changed as laid down. To neglect this and engine oil and filter changes is asking for very big, unnecessary bills and in the case of brakes dangerous. Ever tried to stop quickly from speed on only one circuit or by frantically pumping the brake pedal, which does not always help?


Old mechanic.|||That wouldn't cause the problem you describe.





A failed wheel cylinder will still allow the car to stop by using the part of the system which has not failed. (its a split system)





OK, so the wheel cylinder needs replacing, but you have other problems too which are affecting the other part of the system.





Did you pump the brakes when the pedal went to the floor? This may have saved you from the bump, also at 10mph, the handbrake can be effective.|||If an inspection of brakes was done properly you may have not run into this problem.


Most shops just pull of drums %26amp; look at lining %26amp; you are good to go unless you can


see a leak...


Most cautious brake shops will also peel back dust cover to look for internal leaks.


Its the dust cover that fooled your tech...but you should have felt brake pedal height


change gradually as fluid was leaking...


Bright side no one was injured|||Unfortunately no part is 100% foolproof. Brake Cylinder pumps,usualy start to leak slowly and are spotted on an m.o.t. test.But yours seems to have had a sudden catastrophic burst causing you to lose brake pressure.Its not really anyones fault.|||if you did not ask to have the brakes looked at then the leak even if it was present WOULD not be seen -----------and as you say the car has been ok for 3 weeks .|||your brakes have been fine for 3 weeks , so you can not blame the garage for not seeing them.............|||glad nobody hurt. did you use handbrake etc? anyway. in a way they were asked to check car out, so as a professional enterprise they should have checked the brakes and found a leak , having said that however this will be a grey area as many garages including main dealers simply check wear on linings as recommended by car manufacturers.


the reason it is a grey area is due to fact that unless a garage strip a wheel hub down and visually inspects the cylinders a leak may not be noticed ! ergo a get out of jail free card.


most likely they assumed you wanted it checked out as for say an MOT and did so. unless you had specifically asked for brakes to be checked 100% ( in writing) it would be hard to get a prosecution. you can still point out the relevant crash and brake failure and insist you were relying on their Professional services to ensure a safe vehicle as requested.


as it is minor damage any good garage would not try and waive liability and should offer to pay to fix the damage willingly. you can always phone trading standards and ask for advise on this case.|||The answer is that of course it isn't normal for it to suddenly happen.





I think you need to contact the insurance company and ask if they want to send an expert to examine exactly what failed, because it could be down to a worn pipe or seal or many other things.


It can even have been caused by hitting an object or something.





They would then have to decide whether it was reasonable for a garage to have spotted the defect.


When you say "to just have it checked out", it's unclear what exactly you asked the garage to check out. It would be very difficult to prove negligence by the garage unless it is clear (on paper) what you wanted the garage to check, and even then they would probably say that there was nothing wrong when they checked it.





The only thing I would suggest in the future is to always check the ground where your car was parked to see if there are any spots of fluid on the ground.





You just have to be very very glad that nobody was hurt.|||That can happen when an air bubble in the brake lines lines up perfectly when you step on the brake. Or if the brake fluid is low. I would check the fluid level and bleed the brakes first. Thats a $10 repair.





You dont say how old the car is or how many miles on the car. The cylinder on a specific wheel would only stop that particular wheel. Even if it were leaking, the other 3 wheels should have pressure to stop the car.





The pedal going all the way to the floor shows loss of pressure in the entire system. Get a second opinion. If it ever happens to you again, pump the brakes rapidly to force fluid rotation. Pull over and check your brake fluid.

Son bought a duff car privately?

Described as being in Immaculate Condition with Recent major service and a Great Example of this Model. After just 7 weeks (2 of which he was on holiday) the car (Mazda RX8) failed to start one morning and Mazda have said it needs a new engine at a cost of 拢4,600, Engine mounts 拢436, Anti roll bar and fittings 拢73 and new brakes 拢151. The private seller must have known there was an engine problem. Does this fall under a breach of the Trade Descriptions Act?


What rights does my son have?|||You would have to prove that the engine fault was pre-existing (that it wasn't caused by your son nailling it everywhere) and that the vendor knew of the condition. Very, very tricky.


If you can prove he lied about the car's condition you can sue him - but he must have the money to pay even if you win. An empty victory is an expensive one.





If he is a dealer and sold it as a private vendor to avoid professional obligations - then you have him under the Sale Of Goods Act.





Even if Mazda can show the damage has existed for some time, the private seller could have been completely ignorant of it (doubtful but possible) and still have sold it in an honest fashion.





I know it's too late for this, but the AA and RAC et al charge a reasonable rate for inspecting cars prior to you buying them. If you don't know enough about cars to inspect them yourselves, then these people would have spotted any major fault.|||depends on where you live i guess but here your son has now learn how not to buy a car


he needs to learn how to check used cars before buying them





type into search box





how to check a used car





will find a checklist to help look for problem signs that info he can used rest of life so he doesnt buy another junk car|||get a new mechanic, thats bs, you have every system(almost) that can go wrong, and the prices are steep. get a repair rag!|||the mazda rx8 had alot of problems when it rolled out the factory, including engine replacements, flooding of the engine when it was shut off cold, worn out interiour. The engine is a rotary engine you have to remember, it has a cualt following but i think that its crap, it takes alot of gas, burns way more oil. The rx8 is very nice outside but if you look for reviews online the rx8 had some serious issues. I don't know about your rights, but maybe that'll help you. I'm almost sure the prevous owner knew about theses problems, rx8's were known for this since they were bought off the lot.

Whats wrong with my car?

I have got a 2001 Ford Fiesta Freestyle with the 1.25 zetec-s engine in but under a certain speed and over rough roads there is a knocking sort of noise coming from the centre or rear of the car, its hard to pin point where it comes from. But it only knocks under 30mph on rough roads, get above 30mph and it dont knock at all, but i have checked it all over and the shocks are fine no signs of wheeping from any of them, everything feels tight and firm and nothing does not move as it should the anti-roll bar bushes are perfect. So im at a lose of what it could be, any ideas on what it might be?|||drop link ends - you will not notice the play if the car is at standstill. about a tenner per side for parts.

Very common problem in lots of cars. The symptoms you describe are classic.



Please be aware I could be talking rubbish having never seen a mk5 fiesta up close.|||It could be something as simply as your hatch is loose and rattles, but it could still be your shocks/struts. There is only suppose to be one bounce per jounce. Even if they are still firm and look good they can still be bad.|||Have you checked your Camshaft? that could be fuked as what happened in my mums (your future mum-in-law) old ford escort.|||try upgrading your gas see if that would work. (if it sound like little pepbles) It works only in the center knocking noise. If that dosent work have it check out.|||Check your exhaust hanger where it goes over your rear end.|||are the rubber exhaust mounts okay? could be rattling

Car failed MOT, how much do you think for repairs?

Its a nissan almera 2000, and it failed on a whole heap of things....





Nearside Headlamp aim too low and too far to the right. (1.6)





Offside Headlamp aim too low and too far to the right. (1.6)





Nearside Rear sill Suspension component mounting prescribed area is excessively corroded (2.4.A.2)





Offside Rear sill Suspension component mounting prescribed area is excessively corroded (2.4.A.2)





Offside Rear sill Seat belt anchorage prescribed area is excessively corroded (5.1.B.6)





Offside Front Anti-roll bar linkage insecure (2.4.G.1)





Offside Rear Brake hose ferrule excessively corroded (3.6.B.4e)








Im guessing that the job will be extremely expensive, and probably not worth it considering the value of the car. I'm a bit shocked to be honest, as none of the corrosion was picked up by the garage I took the car to last year (even as an advisory notice).|||If you pick up a small fluxcore wirefeed welder, helmet, gloves, angle grinder, cutoff wheels, jack %26amp; stand, and some flat stock iron; you can do those repairs yourself for under $300. If your budget is closer to $500 or $600, upgrade the fluxcore welder to a sheilded gas mig and run a solid .030 wire. You might want to borrow a tank of C25 gas from a friend.

Should i trust the garage?

Hi,


I've dropped my car for servicing today and the garage just called me and gave a list of things I ought to replace, which all adds up to be quite expensive. My car is a BMW 3 Serie, 2003, automatic, bought last year from a garage. Can you help me decide what repairs/replacement I should do and which ones are unecessary or could be done for cheaper? I know nothing about cars...


Thanks for your help!





Here's the list:


Change Pollen Filter - 拢38





Air Con Re-gas - 拢80





Change Both Front Wiper Blades - 拢42





Change Both Front Lower Suspension Arm Kit - 拢384.80


(bushes completely worn, ball joint excessive play)





Change Both Front Anti Roll Bar Drop Links - 拢118.20


(excessive play)





Anti Freeze Flush - 拢45





Brake Fluid Flush 拢45





Change Fan Belt %26amp; Air Con Belt - 拢108.80


(cracked)|||Is your air conditioning not working?


Do you have any problems with the car overheating (Cooling system)?


Do you have any problems with the brake?


Are both front wipers blades bad?


These are questions you can answer yourself.





I do not deny that these are a part of a regular vehicle maintenance but, if they say


- Both Front Lower Suspension Arm Kit (bushes completely worn, ball joint excessive play)


- Both Front Anti Roll Bar Drop Links (excessive play)


- Fan Belt %26amp; Air Con Belt (cracked)





I would get a second opinion on what needs to be done and I would compare both estimates and would fix these three things and wait until I can afford or I feel more comfortable spending more money to flush the coolant, flush the brake system and change the wiper blades (if they are not so bad).





Good luck|||Is it bmw main dealer? Try shopping around from other garages try Mr Clutch very cheap|||He's ripping you off. Those parts do not cost the price they're asking. I would understand if the labor was really tough, but to install wind shield wiper blades takes 2 minutes or less. Well, you get the idea.





And usually, the thing with garages, is that they never buy the good and premium stuff for you. They purchase the cheapest parts, fluids, for your car unless you specifically ask for a certain brand.|||tell them not to go ahead until you have a second opinion ,from another garage or get the AA or RAC to check the car out ,|||get a second opinion before you pay anything. Some of the bigger "brand name" garages can easily charge twice what a local independent mechanic will. Shop around.|||don't you know if you need windshield wipers...and 42 lb?????? are they nuts.....i pay 6 dollars at any auto parts store {USA]...add it all up tell them you only can spend 300/400 right now...whats important





pollen filter...vacuum it off


AC..you want AC or not??


coolant flush...you care if it starts overheating? and wears out waterpump


brake flush...skip for now


belts...do you care if your stuck on side of road??? fix it


front end...how bad?? still steering ok...put off for 6 mo or yr...but dont forget about it....





BMWS cost too much to maintain/|||Hi - a very similar situation happened to me last month - it might be an idea to go to a local man with a list who relies on his reputation, not an 'approved service provider' who know they will always get business and admit to charging more!


I don't know much about cars but I do know you need to get your Fan Belt changed as I lost my last car to that, don't go for the blades and I would think the flushing is trying to get money. I had to shell out about 400 for the lower arm thing - its seems a bit coincidental (I'd only just got the car less than a year ago when it had had lots of work done) so I'd get a second reliable opinion on that, because sounds like that might be a typical garage money spinner when they think us girls (quite correctly in our cases) don't know what they're talking about! I got stung for 拢900 and regretted not getting a second opinion|||Bread and butter before all else.





Do the suspension work first.





quote:


"Change Both Front Lower Suspension Arm Kit - 拢384.80


(bushes completely worn, ball joint excessive play)





Change Both Front Anti Roll Bar Drop Links - 拢118.20


(excessive play)"





Those are vital to safety. Do these first, ignore the other items for now.





Everything else you can afford to postpone until some other time, they won't leave you stranded. And do shop around, you might be paying them too much money.|||You can always get a second opinion (I generally get at least 2-3 quotes before having major work done (like the suspension items).





I start with the dealership (almost always the highest), a standard shop, and then get the opinion of a 'shade tree' mechanic.





Obviously not everyone is going to be able to work on your BMW, so you might not have as many options as to where to take it.





It doesn't sound like they are trying to screw you - since the car is a bit older, and probably has a few KM on it. It's mostly up to you though, if the suspension feels sloppy in the front, and you've got the cash to drop, then go for it.





Otherwise, tell them to do the routine maintenance, and leave the more expensive items alone for now.





Generally, every time you take a car to a shop (for an oil change or whatever) they will try to get you to have other things fixed, and while they might not necessarily be trying to rip you off, there are some things that might not be pressing issues.|||i live in w/london drop me a line i will check whats wrong and give you a good price


dont just sit there reading this e-mail me|||I smell a scam. I am not familiar with money in Europe, but I do sense that he is just throwing parts at it which is a disgrace to all Technicians in the field.


Question: Do you feel like the car does not stay in a straight line, and do you feel anything in the steering wheel that is different from the time you bought it?


Now before you agree with the mechanic (he is not a Tech if he is throwing parts) you should have him show you the parts that are broken and explain why he is changing the engine coolant and Brake Fluid. He cannot disagree to those terms. If he does, leave the shop with your car and see a technician.|||I f you can afford it do it.


but before it goes in, put a knob of grease on your spare tyre valve, this will tell you if they have checked the pressures, mark your wheel trims to ensure they have been off, ask for all your old parts back to check them, buy your own windscreen wipers, check to make sure they have greased the inges on your doors, mark your air filter and pollen screws to ensure they have at least been off the car, and so on, WHY?


if any of the above are not done you can demand all your money back and report them to trading standards, even take photos of your markings, it does make them think when you point it out to them. there are too many cowboys out there, so is all you are doing is a quality of service check yourself, and you have a right to check the work you are paying for, do not take the car from the garage if the work is not done lock it up and tell them you are taking the matter further unless they compromise with you. mark all items they are claiming to do its easy with a scraper or chisel, get someone to check your marks first, damn cowboys any way so give a bit back mate.|||well you asked the audience! I think a second opinion is needed don't you?|||That sounds very pricey.


Pollen filter-its probably written that it should be changed at a certain mileage but i wouldnt bother. The pollen filter has nothing to do with the engine so it wont matter. All it does it filter out the pollen in the ventillation to make it more pleasant for hayfever sufferers.


Wiper blades-they may well need replacing but they are quite easy to replace yourself and they cost 拢1.49 each from wilko (total of 拢2.98)


Air con regas-if you have used the air con recently and you feel it is working ok then dont bother. Only regas it if you feel it is not effective enough.


suspension and anti roll- i cannot say whether these need replacing over the internet


anitfreeze and blake fluid flush-not essential but should be dont every now and then. Blake fluid can become slighly spongy after a while making the blakes slightly spongy. however this will not happen overnight, you will notice it very gradually.


fan and air con belt-i dont know how easy it is to change the air con belt but the fan belts on most cars can be changed relatively easily, however, this is quite important if it snaps so dont ignore it as its not just the fan that is operated by the fan belt|||i would get a few other quotes if you are not sure,also ask them to show you on the car what the parts are that need replacing so you can see for yourself,all of the above things are important repairs apart from air con re-gas and pollen filter.excessive play on suspension or steering parts are potentially dangerous if left as they will adversely affect the handling of your car as is dirty brake fluid any good garage will be happy to fully explain all of the above repairs to you in a way that you can understand and to show you proof as to why these repairs need to be done.


hope this is some help|||itts a bmw what did you expect when you purchased the car german car parts are one of the dearest on the market

Vectra mot problem to bother or not?

hi i brought my vectra (petrol 1.8 16v) in july and i love it. i knew it had problems when i brought it and thats how i got it cause it was cheap. the thing is now i have the advisory for mot and not sure if it is worth putting it through, she is now on 139,345 miles and last mot was 132,079 so put a few on. heres the advisory :::











Advisory Notice issued


Front Brake disc(s) slightly worn (3.5.1h)


Rear Brake pad(s) wearing thin (3.5.1f)


Nearside Rear Brake pipe slightly corroded (3.6.B.2c)


Centre Exhaust has part of the system slightly deteriorated (7.1.1a)


Rear Exhaust has part of the system slightly deteriorated (7.1.1a)


Manifold Exhaust has a minor leak of exhaust gases (7.1.2a)


Nearside Front Upper Anti-roll bar linkage has slight play in a ball joint (2.4.G.3)


Oil leak


O/S/F and N/S/F anti-rollbar upper gaiters split


O/S/F indicator lense missing - not showing white light


Surface corrosion to underbody panels - may require further attention


Accident damage to n/s/r sill and door











the oil leak is not yet major as it is not actually leaking on to the road not too sure where it is though. the accident damage to the door and sill is going to be replaced by new. also was planning on getting a new exhaust (full system) anyway. i would just like a rough idea of wether i should bother moting or scrapping


my beloved vixie lol.





thanks x|||Hey there...





I had a K Reg cavalier that got to 168,000 but my last Vectra , a p-reg 1.8 like yours ...only made it to 70,000





About a year before I let it go it was in a similar condition. This is not unusual. If you repair and keep going you will probably find more wear and tear on suspension and steering rack...and other items.


I would think the next MOT will cost alot more.


On the other hand if it is reliable and always starts etc. at least you know what it is..


If you bought a second hand newer car for 5,000 today it would loose 1,000 in the first year....so spending 1,000 to keep your vixie on the road may not be a bad idea..





I went for a newer Vectra (55) got a small trade in as long as the MIOT is valid, and am happy...very low costs of MOT since...





Good luck....|||The mileage is a problem, and if its a pre 51 plate get rid as they are prone to many nagging problems with the engine.|||all depends how much you like your car !|||Most of the advisory is minor. Change the rear brake pads. Clean up he N/S brake pipe and grease it to prevent further corrosion Replace the anti roll 'gaiters', they are bushes! Use exhaust bandage over the exhaust as necessary. Put some Gun Gum over the manifold leak. Definitely replace the O/S/F indicator lens. Other comments are not a failure. It worth a try, the cost of components will be relatively cheap, and the work is not difficult.

How do u guys drive?

Question for the car guys, what kinda car do you drive? mod's done etc





I drive a 1.8 Mitsu Lancer





MODS:


Its a 1999 Mitsubishi Lancer with a 4G93T motor.


Turbonetics boost controler


17" R1 rims


2.5" intake pipe from turbo to manifold


Km/h - MPH converter with no speed cut


Solid front and rear engine mounts


Aftermarket blow off valve(to be changed to HKS)


FTO brake upgrade


F1 stage3 clutch kit and Megan sports springs


Rear sub-frame to be upgraded to take the stress from my 24mm Anti-roll bar.|||Please check out my profile to see the basics on my rides. Nice Lancer! Where do you drive?

Citroen saxo vtr noise?

I HAVE A THIS NOISE COMING FROM I THINK IS THE PASSENGERS FRONT WHEEL IT HAPPENS ON A UNEVEN ROAD SURFACE AND OVER BUMPS, I HAVE REPLACED THE FOLLOWING WITH NO SUCCESS .


DRIVE SHAFT O/S - TOP BRIDGE PART


DROP LINKS


ANTI ROLL BAR BUSHES


SUSPENSION LEGS %26amp; TOP BEARINGS


O/S BALL JOINT


IS THERE ANYTHING ELSE IT COULD BE AS I AM GETTING ANNOYED NOW WITH THIS NOISE PLEASE HELP!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!|||Possible knocking strut insert.


This happens occasionally on saxos. You need to remove the macpherson strut, remove the spring, unscrew the cap at the top of the shocker body and remove the shocker from its case.


Pour some oil into the case and refit the shocker so that some oil comes out around the top of the case. Rescrew the cap and refit everything else.





The noise is caused by the shocker rattling inside its case slightly, filling with oil stops it from moving.


Notoriously hard to track down.

Ford KA suspension clonking?

Hello, my girlfriends KA has had a suspension 'clonk' for quite some time now. It comes from the N/S front wheel area. So far i have replaced; suspension spring, top mount, wheel bearing, wishbone, drop link and anti roll bar bushes.


This started after she had a broken suspension spring/coil. The only thing left to replace now is the whole shock! but i don't think its the shock making the noise as it sounds like a metallic sort of clonk. It only happens when going over a bump in the road (pot holes n stuff)..n when you hit rough road sounds like a vibrating/rumbling/grinding noise.


But it won't make the noise when you just push the front of the car up n down..and it doesnt do it over speed humps :S





Any ideas? i am baffled|||It sounds like you have approved it with good thought. I have had such a difficult problem and discovered that it was a weld gone sour. They are hard to find without putting the vehicle on a lift and using a jack as well. Good Luck friend.|||I don't know much about mechanics but I think it might be the shocks as I had to have my front ones replaced for the first MOT and was told the back ones will need done before the next MOT. My mum also has a Ka and needed same done for her first MOT.

Rear sway in ford Focus!?

My 2000 ford focus has developed a sway at the rear of the car, its especially noticable when i go over a bump or when i go from side to side with the steering!





My tyres wernt great so i got them changed and also got 4 wheel alignment done from a reputable garage but its still the same! iv Checked for play in the wheels and the shocks also seem fine!





Any1 got any ideas, im now thinkin anti roll bar but not sure, any help would be appreciated!





Thanks|||Your wheel bearings could be on their way out.





Or you could just be suffering lift-off oversteer, the scurge of Focus chassis "design".|||check the struts or shocks in the rear, not sure which the focus has, but if they are bad they could cause that condition.|||1 new tires...check the pressure 32 to 34 pounds


2 struts if over 80K u need them...get ready for shock...600 to 800 dollars AHHHH


3 shouldent need sway bar...how are panhard bar bushings|||The anti-sway bars don't wear out, but the rubber bushings do. Check that out (front and rear). Just one end of the sway bar being loose can mess up your cornering. Also check the rubber bushings on the shocks and struts. Another possibility is a bent rear axle, but that should have been seen by the alignment shop. Good luck.|||It's bushes or shocks or both. Shocks can cause a noticeable amount of rear end sway when they are wearing out.